


TX 

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Us 



DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE 

BDREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE 
E. E. PRATT, Chief 



MISCELLANEOUS SERIES-No. 54 



CANNED FOODS 



MODERN PROCESSES OF CANNING IN 
THE UNITED STATES, GENERAL SYSTEM 
OF GRADING, AND DESCRIPTION OF 
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE FOR EXPORT 




SRICE, 20 CENTS 

Sold by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office 

Washington, I>. C. 

WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

1917 



mmm. 




Class 


TA 


' bo 3 


Book 




/Jef 





DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE 

BUREAU OF FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC COMMERCE 

E. E. PRATT, Chief 



MISCELLANEOUS SERIES— No. 54 



CANNED FOODS 



MODERN PROCESSES OF CANNING IN 
THE UNITED STATES, GENERAL SYSTEM 
OF GRADING, AND DESCRIPTION OF 
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE FOR EXPORT 




PRICE, 20 CENTS 

Sold by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office 
Washington, D. C. 



WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

1917 



TX60 3 



D. of D. 

SEP 14 1917 



CONTENTS 



Page. 

Letter of submittal 5 

Introduction 7 

Extent of canning industry 9 

Process of canning 16 

Raw material 16 

Preparation 17 

Grading 18 

Washing 19 

Blanching 20 

Filling the cans 20 

Siruping and brining 20 

Exhausting 21 

Closing • 21 

Processing 22 

Cooling 24 

The container 25 

Food inspection ? 26 

General grading of products 30 

. Description of products 32 

Fruits 32 

Vegetables 41 

Marine products 53 

Meats 59 

Other products 61 

Appendix: Standard weights for contents of cans and sizes and weights of 

cases 68 

3 



LETTER OF SUBMITTAL. 



Department of Commerce, 
Bureau oe Foreign and Domestic Commerce, 

Washington, June i, 1917. 
Sir: There is submitted herewith a bulletin on canned foods, pre- 
pared by Dr. A. W. Bitting, through the cooperation of the National 
Canners' Association, in which are described the processes employed in 
the commercial canneries of the United States, the general system of 
grading followed, and the character of the products that are available 
for export. 

The American canning industry is the largest in the world, and the 
development of an increased export trade depends to a great degree upon 
the education of people in foreign countries to the variety and wholesome- 
ness of American canned foods. The distribution of this bulletin by 
American canners and exporters to foreign buyers should prove an 
effective means of trade promotion. 
Respectfully, 

E. E. Pratt, Chief of Bureau. 
To Hon. William C. Redfield, 

Secretary of Commerce. 

5 



CANNED FOODS: 

Modem Processes of Canning in the United States, General System of Grading 
and Description of Products Available for Export. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The art of preserving foods through rendering them sterile by means of 
heat and maintaining them in that condition in a hermetically sealed 
container was given to the world by Nicholas Appert, of Chalons-on-the- 
Marne, France, in 1810. His discovery was no mere accident but the 
result of great industry through a period of 15 years, beginning in 1795. 
He was a man of exceptional ability and had a broad experience in 
food preparation before beginning this work. The results of his first 
experiments, covering several years, were nearly all failures, but he per- 
sisted and finally mastered the principles, giving to his fellow men a 
technique so simple, and withal so safe, that even the inexperienced 
have been able to follow his directions with marked success. The work 
done since his time has been chiefly in the nature of improved mechanical 
methods of preparation of the product, in filling and sealing the cans, 
and in securing greater uniformity and precision in processing. 

The canning industry started in France and in the British Isles almost 
simultaneously and was brought to the United States soon after, where 
it has attained its highest development. This form of food preservation 
was conceived primarily as a military measure to secure better stores for 
the army and navy, in order to avoid the enormous losses attendant 
upon the methods then in use. The improved quality attained and the 
convenience resulting attracted attention immediately to the advan- 
tages to be derived from the use of simdarly prepared foods for household 
consumption, but the crude methods of making cans and the hand 
labor involved in every step of food preparation made the cost excessive. 
Canned foods were looked upon as delicacies, cOndkftents, or confections, 
and available only to those of considerable wealth. 

Very little progress was made in the canning industry in the United 
States prior to 1855, the principal pack being sea food, which in a fresh 
condition could not be transported inland with safety. At that time 
the cities were small, and fruits and vegetables of all kinds were grown 
in their immediate vicinity and delivered fresh by wagon. There was 
not the same demand for something out of season or from other lands that 
has developed later, and aside from this, living conditions were not such 
as to compel the use of foods in concentrated form and free from waste. 

7 



8 CANNED FOODS. 

It was not until the close of the following decade, the period of the 
Civil War, that the superiority of canned foods over those which were 
dried, salted, and pickled became common knowledge. The soldiers in 
detention camps and hospitals, though meagerly supplied with canned 
foods, learned of their excellence and value and later carried the informa- 
tion to every section. Subsequent to this period domestic and commer- 
cial canning increased constantly, though somewhat slowly, because of a 
newly acquired popular prejudice that had to be broken down, and, in 
addition, economical methods of manufacture had to be developed. 

At the present time the United States is not only the largest producer 
of canned foods in the world, but likewise the largest consumer. The 
industry has been developed upon the principle that the foods go to the 
consumer in the most attractive and palatable form, are convenient for 
holding in any place and for a reasonable time, and being sterile are 
therefore always safe. In addition to these facts, all waste and cost of 
preliminary preparation are eliminated. The foods packed are no 
longer limited to delicacies, to fruits or vegetables to extend their use 
out of season, or to marine products to make them available to the 
interior of the country, but the method has been extended to the packing 
of thousands of tons of such articles as hominy, white and kidney beans, 
kraut, and sweet potatoes, foods which are cheap and which have previ- 
ously been sold in bulk. Millions of tins of milk are being packed 
because it is recognized that the canned milk is safer than that of the 
average fresh delivery, and a like quantity of soup is packed because it 
is possible to get better material in large quantities at the factories than 
in the small amounts made in the home. The great factor behind all of 
this is economy to the consumer.' Canning contributes further to a 
wider range in the dietary than would otherwise be possible, and thus 
has stimulated a desire for foreign products to the extent that we have 
become large importers. It also makes available the preparations of 
skilled chefs in homes where crude cookery would otherwise prevail. 

The history of the canning industry in the United States dates back 
to 1 819, when Ezra Daggett and Thomas Kensett packed a few salmon, 
lobsters, and oysters in New Ycrk. In the succeeding year William 
Underwood and Charles Mitchell packed damsons, quinces, cranberries, 
and currants in Boston. Canning was started in Baltimore in 1840 
and in Eastport, Me., on fish, in 1841. Small canneries then sprang up 
all along the coast, using marine products as their principal article, 
these being supplemented by fruits and vegetables in season. The 
industry was started on the Pacific coast, at San Francisco, in 1856, 
and in Alaska in 1878. 

The canning of certain products is largely regional, as might be ex- 
pected in a country as large as the United States. Corn is packed princi- 
pally in Maine, Maryland, New York, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, and 
Minnesota. Peas are packed in New York, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minne- 



CANNED FOODS. 9 

sota, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Maryland, Colorado, and California. Beans 
are packed in New York, Michigan, Wisconsin, California, and Maryland. 
The tomato is packed over a wider area than any other product, most 
largely, however, in New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, New 
York, Ohio, Indiana, and California. The fruits are packed in New 
York, Ohio, Michigan, and California. Meats are packed only at the 
large slaughtering centers, as Chicago, Omaha, and Kansas City. Milk 
is packed in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, 
and California. Salmon is packed in Oregon, Washington, and Alaska; 
tuna; m California; sardines and clams in Maine; crabs in Virginia; 
oysters from Maryland to Savannah on the Atlantic coast and from 
Apalachicola west as far as Louisiana on the Gulf of Mexico ; and shrimp 
on the Gulf coast and as far north as Georgia on the Atlantic. The 
most diversified packing is carried on in California, as the climatic con- 
ditions are peculiarly favorable for producing almost every known fruit 
and vegetable. California is in the same latitude as southern Europe. 
The whole of France and the northern part of Italy and Spain lie north 
of its northern boundary, which is almost in line with Constantinople, 
while the southern boundary, almost 800 miles south, is nearly due west 
from Cairo. The high mountains in the north and east, the desert in 
the south, and the ocean on the west give a variety in climate that permits 
the development of products of the temperate and tropical zones. 

Canning has developed into a special industry in the United States, as 
much so as milling or brewing. It has long since passed the stage of 
being an adjunct to the kitchen in preparing a few dozen jars of some 
product for home consumption, or as an accessory to a fresh market in 
caring for the surplus. It has a distinctive place, requiring the growing 
of suitable crops and necessitating their harvesting, when in prime 
condition, in such a manner as to insure quick delivery to the factory 
without injury; the feeding of herds and the care of milk in a manner 
to produce uniformity in quality and to comply with the highest stand- 
ards of cleanliness ; and the maintenance of especially equipped fleets for 
catching and delivering fish. Machinery of the most complicated char- 
acter has been developed to do nearly every operation of preparation, 
filling, and processing, and thus to reduce handwork to the minimum. 
The investment required for the equipment of even a small factory 
may amount to a few thousand dollars, but for the larger ones it may 
easily exceed a hundred thousand dollars. 

EXTENT OF CANNING INDUSTRY. 

The extent of the American canning industry is shown by the follow- 
ing figures, obtained from the Bureau of the Census, the Bureau of 
Fisheries, and trade organizations known to be reliable, giving the 
number of cases of different products packed in 191 4. 



CANNED FOODS. 



FRUITS. 



Apples (24 No. 3 cans): 

Arkansas 

California 

Colorado 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

Missouri 

Nebraska 

New York 

North Carolina 

Ohio 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Virginia 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 

Apricots (24 No. 3 cans'): 

California 

Utah 

All other States 

Total 

Blackberries (24 No. 2 cans): 

Arkansas 

California 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 

North Carolina 

Ohio 

Tennessee 

Texas 

Virginia 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 

Blueberries (24 No. 2 cans): 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

Vermont 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 



Cases. 

48, 435 

no, 672 

20, 093 

55,9 2 4 

87,57o 

140, 516 

12,971 

3,4i5 

805, 499 

25,430 

614 

25,223 

92, 745 

22, 656 

33, 745 

29,431 



14, 939 



1,005,234 

46, 496 

86 

1,051, 816 



6,032 
142, 138 
28, 297 

9,624 
21,552 

3, 258 
80, 343 

6, 672 
29, 899 

6,478 
10, 140 
93, 768 
13, 960 



452, 161 



116. oor 
8,379 
6,357 
10, 486 

9,907 
506 

i5 I > 6 36 



Cherries (24 No. 2 cans) 

California 

Colorado 

Idaho 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New York 

Ohio 

Oregon 

Utah 

Washington 

All other States. .. . 



Total. 



Figs (24 No. 3 cans): 

Louisiana 

Mississippi 

Texas 

All other States. 

Total 



Gooseberries (24 No. 2 cans): 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New York 

Oregon 

All other States 



Total. 



Grapes (24 No. 3 cans): 

California 

All other States. . . 



Total . 



Peaches (24 No. 3 cans): 

Arkansas 

California 

Georgia 

"Maryland 

Michigan 

New York 

North Carolina .... 

Ohio 

Tennessee 

Utah 

Washington 

All other States . . . 



Total. 



Cases. 

131,252 

8,835 

".959 

3i,492 

45, 699 

214,265 

n, 801 

43, I2 1 

17,272 

21, 022 

6.495 

543,213 



4, 655 

1,429 

12,969 

i,552 

20, 605 



42, 763 

28, 999 

7,684 

3, 459 

6.688 

89, 593 



63, 697 



64, 205 



4,903 

2, 922, 637 

76, 782 

201, 742 

110,391 

9, 072 

9, 070 

5,615 

8,303 

20,955 

6,294 

32, 142 

3, 407, 906 



CANNED FOODS. 



Pears (24 No. 3 cans): 

California 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 

Oregon 

Utah 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 

Pineapples (24 No. 3 cans): 

Maryland 

New York 

Hawaii (No. 2.% cans) . . 
All other States 

Total 

Plums (24 No. 2 cans): 

California 

Michigan 

New York 

Oregon 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 

Asparagus (24 No. 2 cans): 

California 

Illinois 

New York 

All other States 

Total 

Beans, baked (24 No. 2 cans) 

California 

Colorado 

Connecticut 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 



Cases. 
672, 782 

!7,93i 
156, 166 

7.345 
57>66 7 
94, 247 
20, 838 

4,777 
25,850 

5,159 



, 062, 762 



68, 259 

25,879 
2, 262, 000 



35 6 , 140 



150, 216 
31, 126 
72, 106 
10, 699 
16, 834 
7,345 



288,326 



Raspberries (24 No. 2 cans): 

California 

Illinois 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New York 

Ohio 

Oregon 

Washington 

All other States 



Total. 



Strawberries (24 No. 2 cans): 

California 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York .- 

Oregon 

Washington 

All other States 



Total. 



Other canned fruits (24 No. 2 
cans): 

California 

Oregon 

Washington 

All other States 



Total. 



VEGETABLES. 



Cases. 

^620, 859 

6,300 

8,563 
1,879 



637, 601 



39 

12 

15 
481 

40 
252 
387 
708 

1,253 

35 



615 
109 
050 
088 
614 
786 
737 
495 
376 
129 
462 



Beans, baked — Continued. 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Utah 

Vermont 

Wisconsin 

All other States 



Total. 



Beans, string (24 No. 2 cans): 

California 

Colorado 

Indiana 

Kentucky 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

Minnesota 

New York 



Cases. 
3,445 
2,574 
9,728 
67, 142 
199, 230 

9,453 
29, 641 

89, 738 



414, 632 



19,615 
63,878 
23, 940 

4,050 
39, 49° 
15, 194 
17, 5 6 4 

2,188 

185, 9 J 9 



34, 856 

34, 648 

7,773 

9,573 

86, 850 



Cases. 

45°, 9°5 

826, 883 

18, 949 

3 2 > 665 

32,052 

3,468 

5,977,383 



78, 233 

134, 997 

13,305 

12, 619 

37,207 

277,959 

95,38i 

3,974 

705, 220 



12 



CANNED FOODS. 



Beans, string — Continued. Cases. 

North Carolina 6, 559 

Ohio 27,083 

Oregon 9, 292 

Pennsylvania 96, 292 

Tennessee 42, 216 

Utah 48,835 

Vermont 16, 494 

Virginia 14, 774 

Washington 10, 643 

Wisconsin 139, 014 

All other States 19, 927 

Total 1, 790, 024 

Beans, Lima (24 No. 2 cans) : 

California 31, 735 

Illinois 15, 797 

Indiana 100 

Maine 9, 03 7 

Maryland 22, 922 

Michigan 68, 710 

New Jersey 220, 442 

New York 23, 096 

Ohio 29, 340 

Virginia 12, 660 

All other States 9, 645 

Total 443, 484 

Beans, all other kinds (24 No. 2 
cans) : 

California 15, 299 

Illinois 248, 552 

Indiana 181, 972 

Iowa 20, 057 

Maine 20, 639 

Maryland 23, 649 

Michigan 50, 201 

New York 151, 664 

Ohio 41,822 

Wisconsin 22, 259 

All other States 7, 297 

Total 783,411 

Beets (24 No. 3 cans): 

Maryland i 5 , 33 3 

New Jersey 15, 068 

New York 93,5*7 

Ohio 31,402 

Pennsylvania 20, 107 

Wisconsin 58, 086 

All other States 18, 119 

Total 251,632 



Corn (24 No. 2 cans): cases 

Delaware 215, 280 

Illinois 1, 535, 215 

Indiana 668, 443 

!owa 1,530,154 

Maine 1, 101, 333 

Maryland 1, 482, 093 

Michigan 138, 185 

Minnesota 274, 193 

Missouri 3, 021 

Nebraska 225, 801 

New Hampshire 31,961 

New York 769, 562 

Ohio 1, 167, 063 

Pennsylvania 207, 152 

Tennessee 36, 964 

Vermont 157,111 

Virginia 1, 584 

Wisconsin 349, 542 

All other States 25, 293 

Total 9, 919, 950 

Hominy (24 No. 3 cans): 

Colorado 25, 868 

Illinois 120, 474 

Indiana 456, 591 

Iowa 20, 595 

Maryland 8, 632 

Ohio 13, 185 

Tennessee 38, 167 

Utah 1,988 

All other States 600 

Total 686,100 

Kraut (24 No. 3 cans): 

California 4, 032 

Colorado 84, 372 

Illinois 80, 280 

Indiana 359, 619 

Iowa 17, 606 

Maryland 39, 628 

Michigan 54, 307 

Minnesota 8, 440 

New York 195, 069 

Ohio 161, 502 

Tennessee n, 902 

Wisconsin 145, 401 

All other States 22, 061 

Total 1,184,219 



CANNED FOODS. 



13 



Peas (24 No. 2 cans) 

California 

Colorado 

Delaware 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Maryland 

Michigan 

Minnesota 

New Jersey. . . . 



Cases. 
165, 540 
278, 990 
178, 810 
434, 6iS 
434,411 
564, 442 
490, 131 

83,355 
85,512 
New York 1, 957, 737 



Ohio 

Pennsylvania. . . 

Utah 

Virginia 

Wisconsin 

All other States. 

Total 



Pumpkin (24 No. 3 cans) : 

California 

Colorado 

Delaware 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Kentucky 

Michigan 

Minnesota 

Missouri 

New Jersey 

New York 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

All other States 



Total. 



Sweet potatoes (24 No. 3 
cans) : 

Alabama 

Delaware 

Georgia 

Louisiana 

Maryland 

Mississippi 

New Jersey 

Tennessee 

Virginia 

All other States 

Total 



2 59, 8 37 
63, 587 

334, 144 

17, 540 

3,421,125 

56, 5°8 



8, 826, 284 



7,944 
32,412 

6, 670 

70, 016 

3°4, 15° 

34, 963 

7,729 
14, 209 

5,662 

1, 004 
60, 167 
84, 292 
102, 279 
10, 214 
47, 657 



368 



i,794 
39, °93 

1, 466 
18, 008 

131,451 

65, 872 

24, 93 6 

9,943 

*33, 463 

28,389 



454,415 



Spinach (24 No. 3 cans): 



California 

Maryland 

New York 

Ohio 

All other States. 

Total 



23, 755 
282, 795 

5 2 , 596 
15, 45o 
17, i94 



Squash (24 No. 3 cans) 

California 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 

All other States.. . 



39i, 79° 



21, 163 

25, 172 

7:317 

24, 778 

45, 624 
19, 819 
21, 809 



Total. 



Succotash (24 No. 2 cans): 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New York 

Ohio 

All other States 



165, 682 



33, 547 
24, 585 
55, 208 
115,427 
19, 249 
22, 061 



Total. 



270, 077 



Tomatoes (24 No. 3 cans): 

Arkansas 

California 1, 

Colorado 

Connecticut 

Delaware 1, 

Illinois 



152, 
73°, 
149, 
46, 

326, 
74, 



Indiana 1, 172, 

Iowa 165, 

Kentucky in, 

Maryland ,-6*^56, 



Michigan 

Missouri 

New Jersey .... 

New York 

North Carolina. 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania. . 

Tennessee 

Texas 

Utah 

Virginia 

West Virginia. . 



141, 

366, 
695, 
563, 
n, 
5°8, 
218, 
165, 

696, 



536 

487 
363 
5*5 



670 

338 
789 
810 
449 
33 1 
218 
400 
444 
829 

105 

524 
5i8 
257 
477 



Tomatoes — Continued. 

Wisconsin 

All other States 

Total 

Tomato pulp (12 No. 10 cans): 

California 

Colorado 

Delaware 

Indiana 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Utah 

All other vStates 

Total 

Okra and tomatoes (24 No. 3 
cans): 

Louisiana 

Maryland 

Clams (48 No. 1 cans): 

Florida 

Maine 

Oregon 

Virginia 

Washington 

All other States 

Total 

Clam bouillon (48 No. 1 cans): 

Florida 

All other States 

Total 

Clam chowder (24 No. 3 cans) : 

Florida 

Maine 

North Carolina 

Total 

Oysters (48 No. 1 cans): 

California 

Florida 

Georgia 

Louisiana 



CANNED FOODS. 



Cases. 
14, 945 
90, 452 



200, 302 



66 ; 

325: 

72: 
38: 

105 



205 
972 
361 
398 
84I 
358 
OOI 
178 

777 
167 
128 
765 



So 5 
00 r 



Okra and tomatoes — Contd. 

South Carolina 

Virginia 

All other States 



Total. 



All other vegetables (24 No. 3 
cans) : 

California 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Louisiana 

Maine 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 

New York 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Tennessee 

Texas 

Wisconsin 

All other States 

Total 



FISH AND OYSTERS. 



Cases. 

6,197 
94, 813 
11, 690 
14, 874 

53> 000 
4, 612 



185, 


186 


30, 
14, 


960 

2 54 


45, 


214 



II, 067 

86, 771 

5,000 



24, 870 
16, 172 
35, 9°2 
78,516 



Oysters — Continued. 

Maryland 

Mississippi 

North Carolina . 
South Carolina . 

Virginia 

All other States . 



Total. 



Cases. 

1,741 

434 

4,971 



34, 042 



44,314 
67, 545 
"9,375 
29, 030 
8,911 
57, 887 
360 

19, 873 

62,032 

7,026 

208, 272 

147 

57, 669 

5,o54 

13,264 



700, 759 



Cases. 
433, 440 
196, 047 

33, 795 
118,416 

7,429 

52 



944, 639 



Salmon (48 No. 1 cans): 

California 40, 430 

Oregon 376,492 

Washington 1, 096, 366 

All other States 12 

Alaska 4, 056, 653 



Total 5,569,953 



Sardines (48 No. J4 cans): 

California 302, 736 

Maine 4, 634, 424 

Massachusetts 75, 027 

All other States 12 



Total 5,012,199 



CANNED FOODS. 



Shrimp (48 No. 1 cans) 

Georgia 

Louisiana 

Mississippi 

All other States. . . 



Total. 



Milk (48 lbs. per case): 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Maryland 

Michigan 

New Jersey 



Cases. 

26, 014 

162, 005 

266, 021 

5,837 



Tuna (48 No. ]4 cans) : 
California 

All other canned fish : 
All States 



Cases. 
437>°9° 

87,761 



459. 877 
OTHER PRODUCTS. 



Cases. 

3, 488, 023 

293,910 

136, 969 

213, 182 

81,270 

i, 594, 055 

166, 266 

New York 2, 741, 138 

Ohio 1, 052, 289 

Oregon 482, 446 

Pennsylvania 1, 452, 269 

Utah 3 6 9>354 

Vermont 351, 824 

Washington 1, 774, 316 

Wisconsin 3, 118, 386 



Milk — Continued. 
All other States. 

Total 



880,355 



18, 196, 052 



Meat (27 lbs. per case): 

Illinois 4, 186, 937 



Kansas 

Nebraska 

New York 

All other States. 



444, 9°9 
48,317 
5 2 o,444 
754, 9°9 



Total. 



5,955,5i6 



Sausage (26 lbs. per case): 

All States 2, 846, 322 

Soups (24 No. 1 cans): 

All States 4, 886, 098 



RECAPITULATION.® 
Fruits: 

Apples 1, 

Apricots 1, 

Blackberries 

Blueberries 

Cherries 

Figs 

Gooseberries 

Grapes 

Peaches 3, 

Pears 1, 

Pineapples 2, 

Plums 

Raspberries 

Strawberries 

Other canned fruits 

Vegetables: 

Asparagus 

Beans, baked 5, 

Beans, string 1. 

Beans, lima 

Beans, all other 

Beets 



a Valuation figures are from reports of the Bureau of the Census, except for pineapples packed in Hawaii 
and salmon packed in Alaska. Statistics of the Alaska salmon pack are from reports of the Bureau of 
Fisheries. 



Cases. 


Value. 


514, 939 


$2, 392, 289 


051,816 


3, 060, 626 


452, 161 


788, 614 


I5 1 , 6 3 6 


320, 508 


543, 2 i3 


1, 628, 975 


20, 605 


159, 522 


8 9, 593 


142, 876 


64, 205 


110,995 


407, 906 


9, 585, 773 


062, 762 


3, 853, 7°o 


35 6 > !4Q 


5, 642, 250 


288, 326 


438, 238 


414, 632 


1, 137,207 


185,919 


557,519 


86, 850 


356, 082 


637, 601 


2, 790, 817 


977,383 


11,535,047 


790, 024 


3, °6o, 33° 


443, 484 


904, 050 


783,4H 


1, 065, 594 


25i, 6 3 2 


511,900 



1 6 CANNED FOODS. 

Vegetables — Continued. Cases. Value. 

Corn 9, 919, 950 $13, 923, 057 

Hominy 686, 100 712, 991 

Kraut 1, 184, 219 1, 567, 717 

Peas 8, 826, 284 15, 089, 047 

Pumpkin 789, 368 1, 023, 008 

Sweet potatoes 454, 415 736, 759 

Spinach 391, 790 736, 686 

Squash 165, 682 294, 409 

Succotash 270, 077 455, 956 

Tomatoes 16, 200, 302 25, 532, 217 

Tomato pulp 752, 151 1, 454, 051 

Okra and tomatoes 34, 042 75, 946 

All other vegetables 700, 759 2, 944, 085 

Fish and oysters: 

Clams 185, 186 670, 363 

Clam bouillon , 45, 2 14 80, 867 

Clam chowder 102, 838 386, 998 

Oysters 944, 639 2, 676, 951 

Salmon 5, 569, 953 27, 633, 284 

Sardines 2, 100, 000 6, 238, 933 

Shrimp 459,877 1, 725, 621 

Tuna 437, 090 1, 638, 675 

All other canned fish 87, 761 269, 901 

Other products: 

Milk 18, 196, 052 58, 747, 252 

Meat 5, 955, 516 26, 417, 624 

Sausage 2, 846, 322 9, 845, 669 

Soups 4, 886, 098 7, 877, 057 

Total 103, 765, 923 258, 798, 036 

PROCESS OF CANNING. 

The steps in canning vary with the different products, but there are 
certain processes common to all, as collecting the product, grading for 
quality, washing, preparing, filling the cans, sealing, processing, and 
cooling. 

RAW MATERIAL. 

Only prime raw material can be used in canning to obtain a first-class 
product. This is of so much importance that nearly all canners grow or 
contract for their supplies that they may be of a certain quality, be har- 
vested at the direction of the factory superintendent, and be delivered 
without injury immediately after cutting or picking. This is so well 
established that the factories are located as near as possible to the source 
of supply. Labor is transported to the factory, if necessary, rather than 
the material t ransported a long distance to labor. Peas lose their delicacy 
in a few hours after cutting, corn loses its sweetness, beans become tough 
and stringy, and asparagus acquires a bitter taste. The object is to get 
the fruits and vegetables into the can before they undergo any appreciable 
deterioration. Material of the grade found in the fresh markets in cities 



CANNED FOODS. I 7 

is unsuitable for high-grade products. Milk is produced by large herds 
arid is kept under a better system of inspection and control than is the 
average fresh milk delivered in towns and cities. No meats may be used 
in canning or in soup that are not Government inspected, nor may they be 
manufactured under conditions not approved by the Government in- 
spector. The fish packers employ their own fleets in order to have prompt 
delivery, regardless of whether the catch be large or small. The fact that 
nearly all of the products are in a most perishable state when used makes 
it imperative that the packer's supervision go beyond the factory; in fact, 
it is exercised to the very source of production. 







3 . - v>s^9BMBBiP : * 



The most recent type of fish cannery, used for both salmon and tuna. The cannery is floated to a point 
near the fishing grounds. 

PREPARATION. 

The sequence of steps necessary for the preparation of a food depends 
wholly upon the product. In general, however, the superintendent at- 
tempts to make a gross grading when each load is delivered. The varie- 
ties are kept separate, and materials of the same kind but in different 
stages of maturity or showing marked variation in size or quality are 
handled separately. Careful grading is followed at nearly every step 
until the product is placed in the can, and this phase is emphasized from 
the start. Some of the fruits need little preparation other than picking 
out foreign matter and defective material, whereas others require peeling, 
pitting, coring, and sizing. Some vegetables require more work than do 
89274°— 17 2 



r8 



CANNED FOODS. 



the fruits, as thrashing peas from the vines, husking and silking corn and 
cutting it from the cob, snipping and stringing beans, peeling beets, 
potatoes, etc. A great deal of this work is done by machinery and 
better than it can be done by hand. Peaches are peeled by lye; peas are 
thrashed by a machine at a speed greater than could be attained by a 
hundred hands, and with a minimum of injury to the product; corn is 
husked, silked, and cut without hand labor other than feeding the ears to 
the machine, which is done at the rate of a hundred or more a minute. 
The work upon asparagus and beans, however, is almost all hand labor, 
as no machinery has yet been devised that will satisfactorily handle them. 




Grading olives. The olives are carried on a belt in front of the inspectors. Essentially the same 
method is used in grading for quality in all lines. 

GRADING. 

Grading to secure uniformity in a product, in both appearance and 
quality, is a necessity in all high-class packing. Sometimes it would seem 
that this is being carried to excess when it is realized that there are 10 or 
12 grades of peas and an equal number of grades of apricots, 15 to 18 
grades of peaches, and 10 grades of cherries. Grading for size is very 
largely mechanical ; fruits are passed over screens having standard open- 
ings, peas are sifted through perforated cylinders, and beans are graded 



CANNED FOODS. 1 9 

for thickness over vibrating rolls, and later cut to standard length. 
Grading for quality, for uniform texture, for color, etc., can not be done 
by machines, but requires handwork. As far as possible, this work is 
done in the early stages so as to eliminate the handwork after the washing 
has been done. . 




A machine for grading peaches for size. The same principle is used for all fruits except pears. 

WASHING. 

The washing that all products receive in a factory is far more thorough 
than that which is given in the home kitchen. The packing of peas, 
which may be considered typical of the principal products, requires 
nearly i gallon of water in the preparation of each can. Washing 



20 CANNED FOODS. 

machines of seemingly every conceivable type are in use; there are 
various forms of troughs provided with currents of water to agitate the 
product, thus loosening and removing the dirt ; there are perforated cylin- 
ders and conveyors working between sprays of large volume which rinse 
off the dirt, and other sprays under pressure cut and remove the more 
adherent dirt. Some products are washed several times, as before and 
after blanching or grading. 

The washing extends to the machines and cans, and at present mechani- 
cal washers are becoming common in cleaning the buckets and pans after 
each operation, no matter how many times they may be used during the 
day. 

BLANCHING. 

Many vegetables and some fruits are given a brief forecooking in hot 
water, the operation being termed "blanching." In the case of asparagus, 
beans, peas, etc., the object is to remove the sticky or gummy substance 
from the surface, and also to cause a certain amount of softening that 
is not only necessary for the handling in the case of asparagus but con- 
sidered desirable as influencing edible quality. In the case of peaches, 
cherries, and other fruits, it is for the purpose of securing a degree of 
flexibility, so as to enable better packing in the can and to produce a 
greater uniformity of color. The object is not to whiten, as many per- 
sons have assumed. 

FILLING THE CANS. 

The majority of fruits are filled into cans by hand, owing to the fact 
that they must be layered, more or less, to get the proper degree of filling. 
A definite number of peaches or pears can not be placed in a can by a 
machine, so as to get a uniform filling or weight without crushing or 
injury. All fruits are filled by weight. The reverse is true for most 
vegetables; corn, peas, baked beans, hominy, pumpkin, squash, and most 
tomatoes are filled by volume, the work being done by machines. String 
beans are partially filled by machine, and the weight corrected by sup- 
plemental hand filling. Asparagus and sweet potatoes are hand filled. 
Milk and soups are machine filled. A large part of the salmon pack is 
machine filled, but sardines and tuna are layered by hand. Potted or 
ground meats are machine filled, but cuts or pieces like tongue are hand 
packed. 

SIRUPING AND BRINING. 

Nearly all products have a sirup or brine added. All high-grade fruits 
require a sirup, the degree of the sirup becoming as much a part of the 
grade as the quality of the fruit. Only the lowest grade is packed in 
water. The vegetables require a salt or a sweet brine, the latter being 
made with a mixture of salt and sugar. The quantity of sirup or brine 
used is only that deemed necessary for the proper preservation of the 
product. Some products, like tomatoes, squash, pumpkin, etc., do not 



CANNED FOODS. 21 

need the addition of any liquid. Nothing is added to salmon except dry 
salt ; tuna may have salt and olive oil ; and sardines may have a mustard 
or tomato sauce, or oil. Meat jelly is generally added to meats. Where 
sirup and brine are used, they are added by machinery, after the other 
product has been placed in the can. 

EXHAUSTING. 

After the cans are filled, they are heated gradually to partially drive 
out the air, or they may be sealed in a chamber under partial vacuum. 




Filling machine. 



This operation is known as exhausting, and is for the purpose of producing 
a can with ends properly collapsed. 



CLOSING. 

The method of closing the cans depends upon the type used. The 
solder-top cans are sealed by automatic machines, which wipe the tops, 
place the caps, apply the flux, heat the solder, and close the vent without 
the introduction of hand labor. The hand soldering copper or capping 
steel is to be found in only the smallest plants and then usually for patching 
purposes. 

The open-top can is closed by automatic machinery which places the 
cover in position and crimps the edge to the body of the can by means of 
heavy rolls. No acid or solder is used, but a cement substance or paper 
gasket is interposed between the laps of tin. 



22 CANNED FOODS. 

PROCESSING. 

The final act of sterilizing the cans is known as the process, and may be 
carried on below, at, or above the boiling temperature, depending upon 




A can-closing machine. The cover is crimped onto the body. 

the material: When done below or at the boiling temperature, open 
water baths are generally employed and the temperature controlled by 
some adequate device. When carried out above the boiling point, the 
work is accomplished in retorts or autoclaves in water or in steam under 



CANNED FOODS. 



23 



pressure. By means of the latter any suitable temperature can be 
obtained. Fruits do not need a temperature above the boiling point; 
most vegetables can not be processed in one operation with safety at 
boiling; and milk, fish, and meats require temperatures from 235 to 250 
F. (112. 5 to 121 C). The time depends upon the fluidity of the 
material, as the heat will penetrate quickly if free liquid, brine, or sirup 
be present, but slowly if the product be fairly heavy or solid. The heat 




Atypical retort or cooker with regulators for automatically controlling the 
temperature, fixing the time, and cooling the product when finished. 



penetration may be greatly aided by rolling or turning the can, thus 
agitating the contents. The process necessarily depends upon two 
factors — the resistance of the organisms to heat, and the nature of the 
material, as the latter must be cooked to the proper degree, but without 
injury by too high or prolonged heating. It is upon the use of the proper 
process that quality depends. 



24 



CANNED FOODS. 



COOLING. 
The final step is the cooling of the cans, which is done to prevent 
prolonged cooking of the product. Different methods are used, as turning 
cold water into the retort or cooker, removing the cans from the cooker 
to a cooling tank, spraying the cans in the open, stacking the cans in 
trays so that air may circulate freely and the cans cool slowly. The 
method depends largely upon the product and the effect desired. 

NO. 3 5 '/! 



NO. J 5" 



3 Regu/ar 



r 

V- 
F 



HO 2'A. 
HO 2 



no. 1 ' Ta// 
no 1 



S o a a t P/n e app le 

Fish F/ a hes 



wo. 2 F/aT 



No./'/tF/oT 



-i 



F/at Sa/mon 



Jamp/e 



S 



An outline in full size of the principal size of cans used. The individual service or sample can holds slightly 
more than 4 l A ounces (135 c. c); flat salmon, 8 ounces (240 c. c); No. 1% flat, 17 ounces (500 c. c.); 
No. 2 flat, 18K ounces (540 c. c.); jam, 20 ounces (590 c c); fish flakes, 8K ounces (250 c. c); special squat 
pineapple, 22 ounces (640 c. c); No. 1, io l A ounces (310 c. c.); No. 1, tall, 11J-J ounces (335 c. c); No. 2, 
2o>£ ounces (600 c. c.); No. 2A, 29 ounces (860 c. c); No. 3, 34^ ounces (1,015 c - c -)'< No. 3, 5 inches, 35 
ounces (1,040 c. c); and No. 3, 5A inches, 39 ounces (1,160 c. c.). 



CANNED FOODS. 25 

THE CONTAINER. 

There are two styles of containers in use, known as the hole-and-cap 
can and the open-top, or sanitary, can. The former is the older and is 
sealed by means of solder. In the latter the entire end of the can is 
applied after the filling is done and the closure made by crimping or double 
seaming the end to the body, no acid or solder being used. Instead of 
solder, a form of cement or a paper gasket is used to assist in making a 
tight closure. This style of can is rapidly superseding the older form 
because of the ease with which it may be cleaned, filled, and closed. 

The containers are also classed as plain and lacquer lined. The latter 
are used in packing products that have considerable color, as berries, 
beets, etc., to prevent the bleaching effect induced by their action upon 
the plain tin. A few products, as shrimp, crab meat, some tuna, and fish 
flakes, are packed in paper-lined cans for the purpose of preventing any 
dark spots through contact of the contents with the metal. Wood and 
other liners have been used, but paper has nearly superseded all others. 
Outside lacquering is generally done upon goods to be exported, or upon 
those likely to be exposed to dampness or salt air, to prevent rusting. A 
great variety of sizes of cans are in use, so that one may get a product in 
almost any quantity, from the individual service (130 cc.) to about 1 
gallon (3.8 liters.) 

The variety in shapes and the seeming confusion of sizes has developed 
in three ways. First, the cans were made to utilize a standard sheet of 
metal with the minimum of waste by the method of can making in vogue 
at the time. This resulted in cans of arbitrary volume, bearing no definite 
relation to standards of volume, like the pint, quart, or gallon, and un- 
fortunately they did not bear a very close relationship to the quantity 
that would be consumed at a single meal by an average family. A size 
of package was started, however, which has persisted because of a fixture 
in trade and the expense in changing machinery, cans, shipping cases, etc. 
Secondly, was the introduction of sizes to fit a given weight of a certain 
product. This has been particularly true of meat products, as 4, 8, 12, 
and 16 ounce cans. The sizes that will hold these weights of a ground 
meat will not hold the same quantity if cereal be added or if large cuts or 
pieces. The weights have been kept constant and the size changed to 
meet the varying products. The shape of the cans of the same capacity 
has likewise been changed to enable perfect packing of the product. 
Tongue, for example, could not be packed in a tall salmon can and preserve 
the shape and appearance so much desired. Thirdly, is the attempt to 
make cans that will hold a quantity of a given article to retail at a popular 
price, like 10 cents. This applies especially to soup, beans, etc. 

The table on page 68 shows the size and number of cans to the case of 
different products, the net weight of the contents of cans, the gross and 
legal weights of the case, the net weight of the contents of cans in the 
case, and the dimensions of the case. By "legal weight" is meant the 
weight of the cans and their contents. 



26 CAXXED FOODS 

FOOD INSPECTION 

All canned foods, except those consumed within the State in which 
they are manufactured, come within the purview of the Federal food and 
drugs act, passed June 30, 1906. All canned meats come within the 
administration of the meat inspection act, passed upon the same date. 
All food products intended for export must be packed in conformity with 
the Federal requirements for purity, except that "food products in- 
tended for export may contain substances not permitted in foods in- 
tended for interstate commerce when the addition of such substances 
docs not conflict with the laws of the countries to which the food products 
are to be exported and when such substances are added in accordance 
with the directions of the foreign purchasing agent." These two acts — 
the former administered by the Bureau of Chemistry of the Department 
of Agriculture and applying to all foods entering interstate and foreign 
commerce, the latter administered by the Bureau of Animal Industry of 
the same department and applied to the ante and post mortem inspection 
of all animals used in interstate and foreign commerce, to the sanitation 
of all packing plants, and to the manufacture of all meat products and 
products containing any considerable quantity of meat — have had a most 
wholesome effect in raising the quality of canned foods. 

The provisions of the food and drugs act are particularly strong with 
reference to. adulteration, misbranding, and the use of unfit material. 
The fact that the consumer can not examine or see the material until the 
package is opened for use has caused more attention to be given to this 
line than to those in which he can exercise ordinary discrimination. 
The terms adulteration and misbranding are made to have a more com- 
prehensive meaning than is the general conception. Instead of adul- 
teration being limited to debasement of a food by the addition of some- 
thing injurious or the substitution of something cheaper, it is given a 
broader application by specification in a definition. 

An article of food is deemed to be adulterated : "First, if any substance 
has been mixed and packed with it so as to reduce or lower or injuriously 
affect its quality or strength." For example, in canning, if more water 
be added than is necessary for, the proper preparation of the product, as 
5 ounces of water and 3 ounces of oysters in an 8-ounce can. "Second, 
if any substance has been substituted wholly or in part for the article." 
Such substitution may not necessarily lower the nutritive value. For 
example, the substitution of soya beans for the white or navy beans in 
canned pork and beans or baked beans. The white bean has been used 
so long and is so generally understood to be the basis for these products 
that substituting another becomes an adulteration. A mixture of other 
beans is permissible if clearly declared upon the label. "Third, if any 
valuable constituent of the article has been wholly or in part abstracted." 
For example, if part of the cream should be skimmed in making evapo- 



CANNED FOODS. 



27 




28 CANNED FOODS. 

rated milk and the milk thus fall below the legal standard. "Fourth, if 
it be mixed, colored, powdered, coated, or stained in a manner whereby 
damage or inferiority is concealed." No coloring of any description is 
used in canned foods in this country; therefore this provision does not 
apply/ The nearest approach is the use of starch in certain grades of 
canned corn, and this must be disclosed upon the label. "Fifth, if it 
contain any added poisonous or other added deleterious ingredient which 
may render such article injurious to health." This pertains especially to 
added bleaches, preservatives, etc., but also applies to any proscribed 
material, whether it be added directly or gain access through a factory 
operation or in any other manner without intent. No bleaches or pre- 
servatives are used in this country, and therefore the provisions have 
little application. A few products cause some attack upon the tin, but 
the improved methods in handling these foods has had the effect of keep- 
ing the amount below the legal limit. "Sixth, if it consists in whole or in 
part of a filthy, decomposed, or putrid animal or vegetable substance." 
This is the most important provision and is enforced by factory and 
product inspection. 

A product is deemed to be misbranded: "First, if it be an imitation 
of or offered for sale under the distinctive name of another article. 
Second, if it be labeled or branded so as to deceive or mislead the pur- 
chaser. Third, if in package form, the quantity of the contents be not 
plainly and conspicuously marked on the outside of the package in terms 
of weight, measure, or numerical count. Fourth, if the packages con- 
taining it or its label shall bear any statement, design, or device regarding 
the substances contained therein, which statement, design, or device 
shall be false or misleading in any particular." 

These provisions are simple and direct and apply to the purity of the 
product but not to the grade. No standards for the latter have been 
established. These provisions have been amplified by numerous "Food 
and drug decisions," which, while not having the effect of law, indicate 
the interpretation that the officials charged with the enforcement desire 
to have placed upon the decisions, and are accepted as guides by manu- 
facturers. While there are no legal standards for canned foods, there are 
trade standards accepted by the manufacturer and dealer, which are 
indicated under the various articles. 

The provisions of the Federal food and drugs act apply particularly 
to the finished product, but are sufficiently broad to cover the inspection 
of the manufacturing plants, so as to determine the character of the raw 
material used and the sanitation. The various States have their own 
sanitary laws, which, while not uniform, agree in essential points with the 
Federal law, and thereby supplement the latter in the control of the 
conditions and method of manufacture. The general requirements are 
that a canning factory be located away from insanitary surroundings; 
that the adjoining yards be kept clean; that the building be adequately 



CANNED FOODS. 



2 9 




30 CANNED FOODS. 

lighted and ventilated; that the floors be made tight and pitched so that 
they may be scrubbed at the close of each operating period; that water 
and steam be provided at points convenient for washing tables, machines, 
etc. ; that the preparation tables and machinery be of such construction 
that they can be readily cleansed ; and that proper facilities be provided 
for keeping the help clean. The whole trend of the State laws is to en- 
force cleanliness in the factories. 

GENERAL GRADING OF PRODUCTS. 

Nearly all fruits are packed in six grades: First, special extra; second, 
extra; third, extra standard; fourth, standard; fifth, seconds; and sixth, 
water or pie. 

The special extra consists of the choicest specimens of prime, ripe, large 
fruit, even in color and texture, and perfectly peeled, pitted, or pre- 
pared. The sirup used is very heavy (usually 50 per cent), so that the 
finished product approximates a light preserve. Only a very limited 
quantity is packed and the majority of manufacturers do not offer the 
grade. 

The extra comprises the very large, prime, ripe fruit, evenly colored, of 
fine texture, free from blemish, and packed in a heavy sirup, usually 
about 40 per cent. The cleaning, peeling, pitting, or other handwork 
must be of the highest character. 

The extra standard consists of prime, ripe fruit of a slightly smaller 
size than the extra, and, as a rule, packed in sirup of about 30 per cent. 
The quality of the fruit and its preparation must be nearly equal to that 
of the extra. This is a very desirable grade, as the fruit is of prime quality 
and the sirup is more nearly of the consistency to bring out the best 
flavor. 

The standard consists of fruit of smaller size than the extra standard, 
or of orchard run after culls have been removed, is not so uniform in 
ripeness, or even in color, may have some small blemishes, and is packed 
in a still lighter sirup, usually about 20 per cent. Or the standard may 
be orchard run from which the inferior fruit has been culled. It is 
packed in about 20 per cent sirup. 

The seconds consist of small fruit, hard fruit, that which may be more 
or less off color, and pieces more or less irregular in shape from trimming. 
It is packed in weak sirup, usually about 10 per cent. 

The water or pie grade is of the same character as seconds, but in 
addition there may be soft or overripe fruit. This is packed in water. 

The sirup added to the fruit is generally expressed in degrees on the 
Balling or Brix scale which correspond with the percentage of sugar 
present. A 40 sirup corresponds to 40 pounds of sugar and 60 
pounds of water in 100 pounds of sirup. The degree of sirup used 
in the grades depends upon the acidity or the amount needed to bring 



CANNED FOODS. 3 1 

out a particular flavor. The sirup will not test the same on the finished 
product, as juice is abstracted from the fruit and some of the sugar 
enters the fruit. The relation of the sirup on the "cut out" to that 
used in packing is shown in Bulletin 196, United States Bureau of 
Chemistry. 

There are not as many grades of vegetables as of fruits, the grades 
generally being fancy, standard, and substandard, based upon the 
quality, but they may receive other designations based upon the size of 
the material, as the number of stalks in a can of asparagus or the size 
of peas, beans, etc. Not so much attention is paid to the composition 
of the liquor for vegetables as to the sirup for fruits, only sufficient salt 
or salt and sugar being added to bring out the flavor. 

The general characteristics of the fancy grade are that only prime 
material be used, that it be uniform in quality, very tender, and of good 
flavor and color. Asparagus, beans, peas, etc., must have a clear or 
only slightly turbid liquor, and all products must show proper care in 
preparation. 

The standard grade may be the field run of good stock, show less 
uniformity in selection, the liquor be somewhat turbid, or there may be 
some slight discoloration or breaking, due to processing. 

The seconds, or substandard grade, is composed of wholesome, nutri- 
tive material that falls below the requirements of the foregoing grades. 

Milk is not graded, but all of it must comply with the standard — 
minimum content of butter fat 7.8 per cent and total solids 25.5 per 
cent — fixed by the Government. 

Meats are not graded. The provisions respecting meat products are 
much more rigid than for other products. There must be ante and post 
mortem inspection, and all subsequent operations in the way of curing 
and preparing the meats must be done under inspection. The sanitary 
conditions imposed are of the highest character and prescribed in great 
detail. The Government does not fix a minimum standard of meat 
which can be used without inspection, but requires inspection in all foods 
when there is any considerable percentage of meat used. It is not required 
in the case of pork and beans, pork and peas, or mincemeat, but is in 
soups, stews, rations, tamales, etc. 

There is very little grading in marine products. In salmon the grading 
is done upon the species of fish used rather tha,n upon any particular 
part of the fish. In tuna the white meat is separated from the dark, 
and the two are sold for what they are rather than as a first or second 
grade. Sardines are graded to some extent by the size or the number 
that go into a can. Oysters are also graded by the count on a very 
limited pack. 



32 CANNED FOODS. 

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTS. 

FRUITS. 
Apples (Pyrus malus). 

Only the better cooking varieties of apples are used for canning. They 
are peeled and cored, and are prepared whole or in halves for dumplings 
and in large and thin slices for general cooking. The grades are fancy, 
standard, and pie. The fancy grade consists of all bright fruit, free from 
bruises and defects, carefully trimmed, and packed in sirup. The sirup 
is made dependent upon the acidity of the fruit. The standard grade is 
good field run, with the usual machine preparation, but with most of 
the bruised and defective fruit cast out. The packing is in water. The 
pie grade consists of smaller fruit, some of which may be dry, hard, or 
tough, may contain more bruise marks, and show less care in preparation. 

Apple sauce is packed and consists of apples which have been thor- 
oughly cooked and run through a coarse sieve. Apple butter is made from 
apple pulp, cider, and seasoning, cooked to a proper consistency. Apple 
jelly is made from certain varieties of apples that are especially rich in 
pectin and also from juice obtained by steaming skins, cores, and chops. 

Apples and apple sauce are packed in No. iyi, No. 3, and No. 10 cans. 

Apricots (Prunus armeniaca). 

The apricot is a particularly fine canning fruit. It has a very pleas- 
ant, distinctive flavor, which not only persists, but under some conditions 
may improve with age. Apricots are halved and pitted, only a small 
quantity of fancy fruit being peeled. 

The extra grade consists of prime ripe fruit more than sixty-eight thirty- 
seconds of an inch (54 mm.) in diameter, even in color, of fine texture and 
flavor, and packed in a 40 sirup. 

The extra standard grade must possess the same characteristics but 
pass over a screen of sixty-four thirty-seconds of an inch (51 mm.) and be 
packed in a 30 sirup. 

The standard grade consists of well-ripened fruit of good color, texture, 
and flavor, must pass over a screen of fifty-six thirty-seconds of an inch 
(44.5 mm.), and be packed in 20 sirup. More latitude is allowed in 
color and texture and in uniformity of pieces, and small spots of dark 
color on the skin are not barred. This grade is also packed as orchard 
run after culls have been eliminated. In an occasional year when fruit 
does not attain normal size, these grades are made one screen lower. 

The second grade consists of small fruit above forty-eight thirty-seconds 
of an inch in diameter (38.5 mm.), may be more or less irregular in shape, 
not evenly ripened, and may have dark spots on the skin. A io° sirup 
is used. The water grade consists of small fruit, irregular, spotted, and 
green stock culled from the previous grades and packed without sirup. 
The pie grade consists of soft and overripe fruit that is sound, but not 
suitable for the other grades, and packed in water. 



CANNED FOODS. 



33 



Apricots are also kettle cooked to make a heavy pulp or butter. The 
stock for the body is soft and overripe fruit to which, when the cooking 
is nearly finished, some firm fruit is generally added for the sake of the 
appearance. Sugar is generally added. Sliced apricots are packed 
from the same grade as the extras and receive the same kind of sirup. 

The cans used are No. i, No. i flat, No. 2, No. 2%, and No. 10. 

Berries. 

Blackberries {Rubus villosus) , loganberries (the supposed cross between 
a blackberry and raspberry), and raspberries {Rubtis occidental is and 
Rubus idcBus) have similar methods of growth and of grading and pack- 
ing, and may, therefore, be considered together. 







Blackberries and loganberries on top line; raspberries on the second line. Natural size. 

The cultivated blackberry attains a large size as compared with the 
wild berry, and the percentage of seed is much reduced. The flavor is 
particularly pleasing when brought out by a fairly heavy sirup. The 
raspberry is a much more delicate berry, from one-third to one-half the 
size of the blackberry. The color may be black, yellow, or red, the latter 
being preferred for canning. The flavor is distinct. The loganberry is 
of the same shape and size as the blackberry, is of a slightly deeper red 
cojor than the red raspberry, and has the flavor of both. 

Berries are cleaned, graded for firmness and size, and have different 
degrees of sirup used. The extra and extra standard are selected berries 
of large size, are fairly firm, and are packed with 40 and 30 sirup, 
respectively. The standard grade consists of fruit which may be a little 
smaller, more irregular in size, and a little softer than the extra standard. 
A 20 sirup is used. The seconds are sound fruit, which may be soft, 
89274°— 17 3 



34 



CANNED FOODS. 



and packed in io° sirup, 
fruit packed in water. 
The cans used are No. 2 



The water grade consists of ungraded and soft 
and No. 10. 



No. 2y 2 , No. 3, 

Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum, V. pennsylvanicum). 

The blueberry is one of the few wild fruits canned; only a very few 
are cultivated. They are used almost exclusively for pies, but if packed 
in a 30 sirup they have a very fine flavor. They are cleaned by blowing 
out the leaves and stems by machines and by hand picking. Most of 
them are packed in water in No. 2 and No. 10 cans. 




White cherries. 
Cherries (Prunus cerasus). 

There are two types of cherries used in canning, the large sweet cherries 
of the Pacific coast and the sour cherry of Michigan and New York. 
The former are nearly all packed unpitted, while the reverse is true of 
the latter. The pits impart a peculiar flavor to the sweet cherry that is 
considered desirable. 

The unpitted cherries are graded for size. The special extra grade con- 
sists of prime, ripe, selected fruit about 1 inch (25.4 mm.) in diameter, and 
free from all spots, cracks, or other imperfections. They are packed in 40 
sirup. The extra grade consists of fruit of the same quality, but which 
will pass over a twenty-eight thirty-seconds of an inch (22.5 mm.) screen, 



CANNED FOODS. 



35 



and is packed in 30 sirup. The extra standard consists of fruit the next 
smaller size, which will pass over a twenty-six thirty-seconds of an inch 
(20.5 mm.) screen, and is packed in 20 sirup. 

The standard consists of fruit which will pass over a twenty-four thirty- 
seconds of an inch (19 mm.) screen, packed in a 1 5 sirup. The fruit need 
not be so uniform in color, nor so free from defects as in the preceding. 
The seconds are sound cherries, graded or ungraded for size, and may 
be more or less sunburned, have some cracks, and have more or less soft 
ripe and hard fruit. They are packed in 1 o° sirup. The water grade con- 
sists of ungraded, soft, immature, and sunburned fruit, packed in water. 
The sour cherries are pitted but not graded. 

Packing is done in No. 1 flat, No. 2, No. 2>£, and No. 10 cans. 
Cranberries {V actinium macrocarpon) . 

This is the berry which furnishes the tart sauce for meat dressings 
in the fall and winter. It is a fruit which holds well both in the fresh 
state and in cold storage, so 
that it has not been canned un- 
til within the past few years. 

The berries are cleaned and 
canned in water like the goose- 
berry. They are also kettle 
cooked, pressed through a 
sieve, and made into a thick 
pulp. Packing is done in 
No. 1 and No. 2 cans. 
Figs (Ficus carica). 

The fig used for canning 
differs from that used for 
drying, being small, thin- 
skinned, and tender. Grades 
have not been very clearly 
defined. The figs are hand 
sorted for size, the rough por- 
tion of the skin removed, and 
then they are gently heated, with sugar, in jacketed kettles, so that the 
sirup becomes so heavy that they are nearly a preserve. 
.Figs are packed in 4-ounce, No. 1, No. 2, and No. 10 cans. 

Gooseberries (Rubus grossularia). 

The gooseberry is picked green, is ungraded, and is packed in water. 
It is used for pies and as a mixture in tasteless jam products to impart 
flavor. Packing is done in No. 3 and No. 10 cans. 
Grapes (Vitis oinifera). 

Two varieties of grapes are canned, the Muscat in the West and the 
Niagara in the East. The Muscat grapes are graded, but the eastern 
grapes are not. 




Fig. 



36 



CANNED FOODS. 



The special extra consists of large, perfect fruit which will pass over a 
screen with openings twenty-six thirty-seconds of an inch (20.5 mm.) 
and is packed wi*h 40 sirup. The extras pass over openings twenty- 
four thirty-seconds of an inch (19 mm.) and are packed in 30 sirup. 
The extra standard grade consists of fruit more than twenty-two thirty- 
seconds of an inch (17.5 mm.) in diameter, packed in 20 sirup. The 
standard grade contains fruit which is more than twenty thirty-seconds 
of an inch (16 mm.) in diameter, packed in 15 sirup. The fruit need 
not be so nearly perfect nor so free from blemishes as in the higher grades. 
The seconds and water grades consist of sound, ungraded, or small fruit, 
and fruit which may be spotted or unfit for the higher grades, the only 
difference between them being that the 
seconds are packed in io° sirup. 

Packing is done in No. 1 flat, No. 2, 
No. 2>2 1 an< 3 No. 10 cans. 

Grapefruit (Citrus grandis). 

The cultivation of the grapefruit is lim- 
ited to Florida, Arizona, and California. 
It has been very greatly improved under 
cultivation by the elimination of the ex- 
cess bitterness which was formeily present 
in the lower layer of the skin and in the 
fibrous portion which separates the pulp 
chambers. It has come into great favor 
as a breakfast appetizer, being preferred 
by many to the orange. It is only re- 
cently, however, that the amount pro- 
duced has equalled the demand, even 
during the height of the season, so that 
it is a new product in tin. The canning 
is done in Florida. 
The fruit is peeled, the pulp cells separated, and the majority of the 
seeds removed. The packing is done in No. 2 flat and No. 2>£ cans. 

Olives (Olea europxa). 

The canned ripe olive of California is rapidly displacing the pickled 
green olive. When the fruit is permitted to remain upon the tree until 
it is ripe and has developed the maximum oil, it develops a flavor far 
superior to the pickled green fruit. It then becomes a food as well as 
a condiment. 

The olives are graded according to color, firmness, and size. Jumbo 
olives average about 55 olives to the pound, or 121 to the kilo; the mam- 
moth, about 70 to the pound, or 154 to the kilo; large, about 88 to the 
pound, or 194 to the kilo; medium, about 107 to the pound, or 255 to 
the kilo; and standard, 120 to the pound, or 264 to the kilo. 




CANNED FOODS. 



37 




38 



CANNED FOODS. 



The packing is done in No. i, No. 2, No. 2 double height, No. 1%, 
and No. 10 cans. 

Peaches (Prunus persica). 

The peach leads all other fruits in canning, both in volume and value. 
It is a popular fruit, being pleasing to the eye as well as to the sense of 
taste, and it keeps well. There are two types, the clingstone and free- 
stone, the former being preferred because of the finer though firmer 
texture and the evenness of color; the freestone, however, is often 
regarded as having somewhat the better flavor. 

Peaches are split, pitted, and peeled, and very carefully graded for 
size, color, and texture. The special extra grade requires prime, ripened, 

perfect fruit that will 

pass through a seventy- 
six thirty-seconds of an 
inch (60.5 mm.) screen. 
Those that pass over 
are too large to permit 
seven pieces or more in 
a No. 2 x / 2 can. The 
workmanship in peeling 
and pitting must be per- 
fect. A 55 sirup is used 
in packing. The extra 
peaches should have the 
same qualities as the 
special extra, but pass 
through a seventy-two 
thirty-seconds of an inch 
(58 mm.) opening, and 
be packed in a 40 sirup. 
The extra standard grade 
consists of prime, ripe 
peaches of the size that will pass through a sixty-eight thirty-seconds 
of an inch (54 mm.) screen, and is packed in 30 sirup. The stand- 
ard grade consists of the orchard run of sound fruit, but need not be so 
uniform in size or color as the higher grades. The peeling and pitting 
should be well done, but some irregularities are tolerated. The sirup 
should be 20 . The seconds consist of peaches which may be hard, small, 
off color, or irregularly cut. A io° sirup is used. The water grade usually 
consists of overripe or soft fruit, irregular pieces, and small and discolored 
stock from the higher grades, packed in water. 

Sliced peaches were formerly prepared from excessively large fruit 
and from irregularly cut stock, but the demand has become so great that 
they are now prepared from the same class of stock as the special extra, 
extra, and extra standard, and are given a corresponding sirup. Peaches 




A pear, natural size, showing the size for 9 pieces to a No. 2 l A can. 



CANNED FOODS. 



39 



are also packed whole and unpitted, and are known as Melba style. 
These are packed with one, two, three, or four in the can, depending 
upon its height. The sirup is usually 55 . Soft peaches are also cooked 
in jacketed kettles and run through a screen, making a heavy pulp or 
butter. 

The packing is done in 4-ounce, No. 1 flat, No. 2 flat, No. 2%, No. 3, 
and No. 10 cans. 

Pears (Pyrus communis). 

Pears are graded, peeled, cored, and packed in halves. Owing to their 
shape and peculiar texture, all the work is done by hand. They must 
be well matured, but not soft enough to break 
in handling. 

The special extra grade must be of such size 
that 8 to 9 pieces fill a No. 2% can, be evenly 
matured, of fine texture, perfectly peeled and 
cored, and packed in 40 sirup. The extra 
grade should have the same qualities, but 
pack from 9 to 12 pieces to the can, and in 
30 sirup. The extra standard should have 
the same qualities, but may pack from 10 to 
14 pieces to the can, and in 20 sirup. The 
standard grade should have fruit of good 
quality, but need not be so uniform in size, 
color, or quality, and more tolerance is per- 
mitted in imperfect peeling and coring. The 
sirup used should be 15 . Seconds comprise 
soft pears, large and small ones, and irregular 
pieces, packed in io° sirup. The water grade 
is of the same quality as seconds, but packed 
in water. 

Pears are packed in No. 1 flat, No. 2 flat, 
No. 2, No. 2]/ 2 , and No. 10 cans. 

Pineapples (Ananas saliva). 

I'liieappit. 

Pineapple packing has been almost wholly 
transferred to the Hawaiian Islands, as the fruit grown there is of high 
quality. Formerly the fruit was collected while underripe in Cuba and 
brought to the eastern canneries, but this required too much time and 
expense as well as a loss of quality. 

The extra grade consists of selected, prime, ripened fruit, the eyes fully 
developed, the color light yellow, the tissue tender but firm enough to 
retain a clean-cut outline while handling and processing. The peel and 
hard core are removed. A 50 sirup is used. The second extra or extra 
standard must have all the characteristics of the extra, except that it 
may be of a lighter color or the fruit may be slightly greener. The sirup 




40 CANNED FOODS. 

is the same. The difference between these grades is so slight that the 
latter is being discontinued. The standard grade consists of fruit with 
some imperfections in the development of the eyes, some variation in 
color, and some tolerance is permitted in cutting. A 40 sirup is used. 
The fourth grade is also known as second standard, and includes some 
imperfect slices from the tops and butts, more light fruit, and more 
pieces with an eye broken out. The sirup is 40 . The fifth grade con- 
sists of irregular and spotted fruit and culls. 

Pineapple is also packed in pieces, chunks, and shredded or grated. 
The disks made in coring are packed for confections. 

Sliced pineapple is packed in No. 2, No. 2^2, and No. 3, and grated 
pineapple in No. 2, No. 2^, and No. 10 cans. 

Plums (Prunus domestica). 

The plum has always been a popular fruit, but its place among the 
canned foods has been more nearly that of an appetizer. It is a fruit 
that is much esteemed, but the desire is satisfied with a lesser amount 
than of many other fruits. In the West the greengage and yellow egg 
varieties are most used, and in the East the damson. The former are 
carefully graded for size, the latter are not. The damson plum is men- 
tioned in the first consignment of canned food exported from the United 
States. 

The extra grade of plums is selected from ripe fruit, free from spots or 
blemishes, more than fifty-six thirty-seconds of an inch (44.5 mm.) in diam- 
eter, and is packed in 40 sirup. The extra standard is of the same quality, 
is more than forty-eight thirty-seconds of an inch (38.5 mm.) in diameter, 
and the sirup is 30 . The standard grade is from good stock, but may show 
more variation in ripeness and in color, may have some blemishes, and 
the fruit be more than forty thirty-seconds of an inch (31.5 mm.) in 
diameter. The sirup should be 20 . The seconds should pass over a 
i-inch screen, may be irregular and spotted, and be packed in io° sirup. 
The water grade generally consists of those which are irregular, smutted, 
and soft ripe, and may be of any size. 

Plums are packed in No. 1 fiat, No. 2]/ 2 , and No. 10 cans. 

Prunes. 

The dried-prune crop on the Pacific coast amounts to about 250,000,000 
pounds annually, a very large part of which is exported. The one objec- 
tion to this method of preparation is that where the goods are shipped 
through or into the Tropics there may be some deterioration. To 
overcome this condition prunes are canned, either dry or in sirup. A 
distinct advantage in this method is that the fruit is ready to serve at 
any time and the delay and inconvenience of soaking and preparation 
is avoided. 

The prunes used for canning are generally what are known as 50s to 
60s dried, or which run that number to the pound. They are packed 



J$l, 




CANNED FOODS. 4 1 

in sirup or in water, the extra grade being packed in 30 sirup, the 
standard grade in 20 sirup, and the undesignated in water. They are 
packed in No. 2}i and No. 10 cans. 

Strawberries (Fragaria virginiana). 

The strawberry grows upon a ground vine, and the stem is taken in 
pulling the fruit. It is one of the most popular fruits when fresh, but 
there are only a few varieties that give satisfactory results when canned. 
The fruit must be of fair size, firm, with a 
strong color, and rather acid. The fruit is 
stemmed, graded for size, and washed, the 

grades corresponding to those of the black- -g^fer ■tj^^fr. 

berry. They are packed in No. 2 and No. 2 x / 2 JS ^ BffS SS&SLS^. ■ 
cans. BHBmB^i . tS^^? 

Fruit Butters. 

Fruit butters, compotes, jams, jellies, and 
preserves of almost all the varieties described 
are packed either alone or in such mixtures 
as the customer may desire. Those to which 
orange, lemon, and pineapple are added are 
most in demand. The packing is principally strawberry . Naturalsize . 
in No. 1 and in the special can, 4 inches in 

diameter and 3^ inches high, holding 20 ounces. Some whole fruits 
are also packed in mixtures. 

VEGETABLES. 
Artichokes (Cynara scolymus). 

The base of the flowering heads of the artichoke are esteemed as a 
delicacy, and recent attempts at canning have demonstrated that they 
can be preserved in this manner and made available at any place, 
where formerly they could be properly served only near the point where 
grown. The flowering heads are picked while the parts are tender, and 
they are rushed to the factory and packed before any toughening can 
occur. They retain their character and flavor, and are especially prized 
for salads or to be served with a dressing like mayonnaise. 
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis). 

Asparagus stands at the head of the list of vegetable delicacies. It is 
the most expensive product grown either for the fresh market or to be 
canned, as it can be grown successfully only upon the richest, conse- 
quently the most valuable, land. It requires much labor for its cultiva- 
tion and an exceptionally large amount for harvesting, as each stalk is 
cut separately and must be handled five or more times. It is growing in 
popularity with wonderful rapidity, as attested by the fact that in 1905 
the total pack was about 5,500,000 tins, and in 1915 about 19,000,000 tins. 
It is exported to all countries having tariff regulations that are not 
prohibitive. 



4 2 



CANNED FOODS. 



Asparagus is packed according to the size and color of the stalks. The 
white is preferred by the majority of persons, and consists of the stalks 
which are cut before they have come through the ground and have been 
exposed to the light. The cutters locate the stalks by the cracks which 
are formed as the top is about ready to break through. The green aspara- 
gus differs from the white in that it has been exposed to light for a day 
or less and during that time acquires a different flavor. The grading for 
size is based upon the number of stalks required to fill a No. 2% square 
can, which averages 20 for mammoth, 30 for large, 40 for medium, and 50 
for small. In asparagus tips about 30 per cent more stalks are required 




Artichokes. The fleshy part of the bracts and other base of the flowering head are used. 

for the same grades. It is packed in No. 2 x / 2 tall and No. 2 square cans, 
and in No. 1 , No. 2 , and No. iyi round cans. The square can is preferred. 

Refugee Beans (Phaseolus nanus). 

Certain varieties of beans have been developed for their pods rather 
than for the seed and are eaten or canned while in a green state. The pods 
are fleshy, crisp, and tender, and when broken show either no string or 
only a very rudimentary one. 

The beans are picked by hand at frequent intervals in order to secure 
the maximum number of small size. They are sorted by machine accord- 
ing to their diameter, and the larger ones cut to definite lengths. The 
beans must pass between rollers set at fixed distances, so as to make a 
separation for size, the first grade being eight sixty-fourths of an inch 
(3.2 mm.); the second, eleven sixty-fourths of an inch (4.4 mm.); the 
third, fourteen sixty-fourths of an inch (5.5 mm); the fourth, eighteen 
sixty-fourths of an inch (8.7 mm.); and the fifth grade pass over. The 
smaller the bean, the higher the grade, though the highest nutritive value 
is in the more mature of the series. Beans are filled into the can by 
weight. The packing is done in No. 2, No. 2%, No. 3, and No. 10 cans. 



CANNED FOODS. 43 

Wax beans are like the green beans, except that they have a very light 
yellow pod. They are handled in the same manner. 




Asparagus. Small tip, small, medium, large, and mammoth stalks, natural size 
Lima Beans {Phaseolus lunalus). 

Lima beans are shelled and packed both green and ripe. They have 
a distinctive flavor that has long been esteemed. The beans are graded 
for size by the use of sieves of 24, 30, 31, and 32 thirty-seconds of an 



44 



CANNED FOODS. 



inch mesh (19, 23.5, 24.5, and 25.5 mm.). Those passing through the 
first sieve are called tiny; through the second, fancy; through the third, 
medium; through the fourth, standard; and those passing over, 
mammoth. 

Packing is done in No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 cans. 

Kidney Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris). 

The red kidney bean is from dry stock, ungraded, and is packed either 
plain or with chili sauce. Packing is done in No. 1 and No. 2 cans. 




String beans, natural size, after canning. 
Beets (Beta vulgaris). 

Beets for canning are from an especially red, garden variety. They 
are planted so as to develop late in the fall when the weather is 
cool, in order to secure small size and the maximum of tenderness. 
Beets which are not red throughout or have large vascular zones are 
not suitable. They are graded according to size, the small being less 



CANNED FOODS. 



45 



tnan i inch (25.4 mm.) in diameter, the medium from 1 to \% inches 
(25.4 to 38 mm.), the large from 1^ to 2 inches (38 to 50.8 mm.), 
while those above 2 inches (50.8 mm.) are used for sliced beets. They 
are packed only in lacquer-lined tins in order to retain their color. 
Packing is done in No. 2, No. 2>£, and No. 3 cans. 

• i )&;} 

Lima beans, natural size. Tiny, fancy, medium, large, and mammoth. 
Brussels Sprouts (var. of Brassica oleracea). 

Brussels sprouts are a variety of cabbage which has been developed 
to produce a number of heads along the stalk. These small heads are 
compact, the leaves being much finer in texture 
than the regular cabbage. They are collected 
when about 1 % inches in diameter. The outer 
leaves are removed and the packing is done in 
weak brine. Owing to the fact that the work 
is done very promptly after harvesting, the 
canned product is generally superior to the 
fresh found on the market. 

The packing is in No. 2^ cans. 

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea). 

Small firm heads of cabbage are selected, the 
outer leaves removed, and the core and coarse 
midribs cut out. The packing is done in No. 
3 cans. 

Carrots (Daucus carota). 

Carrots are packed whole, sliced, and diced. 
They are used largely by hotels and restau- 
rants in soup stock. The packing is almost 
wholly in No. 10 cans. 

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. lotrytis). 

Only the firm heads of cauliflower are used. 
They are trimmed carefully and then broken 
apart. While the quality is not injured by 
canning, the bright color so desirable in the fresh head is not retained. 
It is packed in No. 3 cans. 

Celery (Apium graVeolens). 

Celery is canned in stalks the full length of the can, or cut to short 
lengths. It is used largely as an addition to soups. Packing is done 
in No. 2 and No. 10 cans. 




A beet of the most desirable size used 
in canning. The flavor is well de- 
veloped but there is no toughenin g 
of the fiber. 



4 6 



CANNED FOODS. 



Corn (Zea mays). 

Corn is one of the three largest canned staples. Sweet or sugar corn 
has been cultivated for a very long time especially to be eaten in the 
fresh state. The varieties preferred develop kernels with small or medium 
size grains which are tender and have a high sugar content. More effort 
has been expended in trying to pack this article than probably any 
other. More special machinery has been developed for handling it — 
huskers, silkers, cutters, mixers, cookers, and fillers — than for any 
other, so that it is handled in very large quantities at a minimum expense 
for labor. 

When packed with a heavy body, it is called cream corn; when the 
grains are cut as near to the cob as possible and they remain separate in 

the brine, it is called whole-grain corn 

when the grains are slit on the end 

and the contents squeezed out, it is 

called hulled corn; and when the 

cut grains are run through a cyclone 

to remove all hull and tough material, 

it is known as green corn meal or 

kornlet. A small amount of corn is 

packed on the cob, but not enough to 

be a factor in the trade. 

, r .. The grades of corn are fancy, stand- 

^Ht %li \w m A ard, and seconds. A can of fancy corn 

iM mh \S I / ifl should be filled to within three-eighths 

^',mT f j 1 of an inch (9.3 mm.) of the cover, be 

' .$ tw^* / (B young, tender, with the distinctive 

flavor of young corn, medium moist, 
practically free from husk or silk, and 
only slightly darker than the natural 
product. A can of standard corn 
should be well filled, reasonably ten- 

Okra. 

der, of a fairly bright color or only 
slightly brown, nearly free from silk, bits of husk or cob, and have the 
flavor of green corn. The second grade is green corn, but too mature 
to qualify under the above grades. The grains are harder and have 
more starch and the hull is tougher. There may be some separation of 
brine and a darker color from processing. 

Succotash is a mixture of corn and beans, the latter preferably green 
lima beans. The beans must be present to the amount of not less than 
20 per cent. If the ripe lima bean be used, that fact must be declared 
upon the label. The grades of succotash correspond to those of corn. 
The packing of corn and succotash is almost exclusively in No. 2 cans. 





CANNED FOODS. 



47 




Delivering corn at a factory. A large plant will pack 250,000 cans per day. 




A typical corn and vegetable packing plant, light and sanitary. 



4 8 



CANNED FOODS. 



Okra (Hibiscus esculentus). 

Okra is a semihardy plant grown for its pods, which are used exten- 
sively in the making of gumbos, and are rapidly coming to be used in 
vegetable soups. It is one of the products for which a taste must be 
acquired, after which it is relished. The pods are packed preferably 
when less than 3 inches long. They are canned whole or sliced. Pack- 
ing is done in No. 2 and No. 3 cans. 

Peas (Pisum sativum). 

The pea is another one of the three vegetables most largely canned. 
It was one of the first products to be canned, and for a long time was re- 
garded as a dainty or luxury. On only one other line, corn, has there 
been a corresponding amount expended in the development of special 
machinery. The harvester, viner, cleaner, washer, sizer, gravity grader, 




A pea viner. The mowed vino 



fed into the machine, the pods are broken open, and the tender peas 
separated without injury. 



split remover, blancher, and filler represent persistent effort in a mechani- 
cal way to make every step from the cutting to the completed can 
automatic, continuous, and without the use of the human hand on any 
part of the product which is to be consumed. A single viner shells 
more peas in a day than was formerly accomplished by 200 women. 
"An hour from the field to the can" is not literally true, but is very 
closely approximated. The speed and economy with which this crop 
can be handled has made possible the enormous consumption of a choice 
food that was once available only to the rich. 

Two varieties of peas are used, the smooth, round pea, known as the 
early or Alaska type, and one not quite spherical, wrinkled when mature, 



CANNED FOODS. 49 

known as the sweet wrinkled. The two have distinct flavors, the latter 
being generally sold as sweet or sugar peas. 

Peas are graded according to size. No. i is the smallest and passes 
through a screen of eighteen sixty-fourths of an inch (7 mm.); No. 2, 
twenty sixty-fourths (8 mm.); No. 3, twenty-two sixty-fourths (8.7 
mm.); No. 4, twenty-six sixty-fourths (10.3 mm.); and No. 5 passes 
over this screen. With the sweet wrinkled varieties, it is sometimes de- 
sirable to add one more division, a screen of twenty-eight sixty-fourths 
of an inch (11.1 mm.). These correspond to the old designations — petit 
pois, extra fins, fins, early June, marrowfat, and telephone. The smallest 
peas are the ones most prized and bring the most money, but the larger 
sizes have better developed flavor and higher nutritive value. 

The grades are fancy, standard, and substandard. Fancy peas are 
those packed from young succulent stock, of fairly uniform size and 
color, unless declared ungraded for size, and in reasonably clear liquor. 
Standard peas are packed from stock less succulent than the fancy 
grade, but green and of mellow consistency, of uniform size and color, 

9 • • • # 

Peas, natural size. No. 1, or petit pois; No. 2, or extra sifted; No. 3, or sifted; No. 4, or early June; No. 5, 
or marrow fat; and No. 6, or telephone. 

unless declared to be ungraded for size, and in reasonably clear liquor, 
though not necessarily free from sediment. Substandard peas are 
packed from stock that is over-developed, though not fully ripened, or 
that lack in other respects the qualifications for the standard grade. 
Peas are packed in 6-ounce, No. 1, and No. 2 cans. 

Peppers, Chilies {Capsicum armuum). 

The growing and packing of chilies is confined to a small territory in 
southern California, though attempts at cultivation are being made in 
some of the Southern States. The chili used for canning is the large, 
sweet variety. It is picked green, peeled, a part of the seeds removed, 
and packed as nearly whole as possible. The pods are layered in the 
small cans. It is also packed ground, to be used as an addition to soups 
and for flavoring other foods. It is not graded. 

The packing of whole chilies is done in a special can 3 inches in diameter 
and 2}4 inches tall. The ground chili is packed in No. 10 cans. 

Pimienta. 

This is a sweet pepper and would be more appropriately so designated 
rather than by the foreign name. Like the chili, it is packed almost 
exclusively in southern California. The peppers are large, pear-shaped, 
and have thick, fleshy walls. They are not picked until fully ripened, 
when they are of a very bright color. They have slight pungency and 
are more highly esteemed than the foreign ones. They are peeled, the 
89274°— 17 4 



50 CANNED FOODS. 

seeds removed, and the pod carefully folded, so that it may be kept for 
garnishes, etc. They are not graded. Packing is done in a pimienta 
can. 

Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo). 

Pumpkin is packed in the form of a heavy, but thoroughly screened, 
pulp. Most pumpkin is packed plain, but some is packed spiced and 
ready for use. The cans used are No. 2}4, No. 3, and No. 10. 

Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum) . 

Rhubarb has long been used as an appetizing tart sauce or in pies. It 
is canned in sirup or in water. The leaf stalks are cut transversely into 
lengths of about one-half inch (13 mm.). Packing is done in No. 3 and 
No. 10 cans. 




Spinach. One-third natural size. 
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea). 

Spinach belongs to that class of foods generally denominated "greens." 
It is grown both as an early spring and a fall crop in order to secure the 
tenderness and improved flavor that results from growth in cool weather. 
The rapid increase in the consumption of spinach is an indication of the 
extension of canning to the cheaper foods as a matter of economy. 
Canned spinach is preferred even during the season when it may be 
obtained fresh, because when prepared it is free from all waste and i;. 
thus more economical. Packing is done in No. 2% and No. 3 cans. 

Squash (Cucurbita ooifera). 

Squash is prepared in a manner similar to pumpkin, with which it is 
closely related. It is packed in No. 2%, No. 3, and No. 10 cans. 

Sweet Potatoes (Ipomoea batatas). 

The sweet potato does not keep well after harvesting, and aside from 
this there is considerable loss from shrinkage. In order to avoid the 
losses from holding, the potatoes are peeled and canned. There are two 
styles of packing — whole and those mashed or stuffed into the can. 



CANNED FOODS. 



51 




1 § 



52 CANNED FOODS. 

There are two grades, fancy and standard. The fancy grade consists 
of selected whole potatoes or large pieces, carefully trimmed and packed 
by hand as closely together as possible. They should be nearly dry, of 
bright color, and of even texture. The standard grade consists of whole 
potatoes mashed into the can to a given weight. No attempt is made to 
preserve their identity. They should be fairly dry and of good color, 
though some brown is admissable. 

Packing is done in No. 2>£ and No. 3 cans. 

Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum). 

The tomato is the most widely canned of all the vegetables. It is 
packed whole, and as pulp, puree, and a mixture of whole tomatoes and 
puree. Tomatoes are also packed with corn, beans, okra, and whole or 
ground peppers; they form the principal part in tomato soup and are a 
part of nearly all vegetable soups. They constitute the principal dress- 
ing for beans, and in the form of the great American condiment, ketchup, 
form a relish for meats and other foods. They are packed in every size 
of container from the individual service to the 5-gallon can. 

Four grades are recognized in the trade — extra, extra standard, 
standard, and seconds or soup stock. Extra tomatoes should be 
selected, prime, ripe fruit with a firm fleshy body, well-developed flavor, 
and a uniform red color. A can when opened should be full and most of 
the tomatoes whole or in large pieces, free from peel, cores, or defects. 
Extra standard tomatoes should be selected, prime, ripe fruit, have a 
fairly fleshy body, good flavor, but there may be some variation in color. 
The can when opened should show the majority of the tomatoes whole or 
in large pieces. Standard tomatoes should be field run, of sound, ripe 
fruit, fair body, and of good flavor, but the color may be irregular and 
the tomatoes broken. They should be well peeled and cored. Seconds, 
or soup stock, consists of small tomatoes, pieces, and parts with more or 
less green and soft stock. 

Tomato puree is the best form in which to obtain the tomato. It is 
the whole tomato with skin and seeds removed and concentrated to 
a little less than one-half its bulk. It is in the proper condition for 
the addition of seasoning and ingredients to make soup or sauces. 
There is also economy in the size of the can used and in the freight 
transportation. 

Tomato paste is the heavily concentrated tomato. It is produced 
by evaporating pulp to a very heavy consistency in a vacuum kettle 
or by first making pulp and then draining it. In the latter method 
of preparation there is loss of acidity and soluble solids and with little 
more remaining than the fiber and coloring matter. The former method 
is the one to be preferred. The paste varies in composition, but this 
is regulated in the trade by specifying the specific gravity desired. The 
packing is done in 5^, 6^", and 12 ounce cans. 



CANNED FOODS. 



53 




Cans used for whole tomatoes are No. i flat, No. 2, No. 2%, No. 3, 
and No. 10; for puree, the sauce can, No. 1, No. 2, and No. 10. 

Turnips (Brassica rapa). 

Canned turnips are used mainly in hotel and restaurant sendee. 
They are grown, like beets, late in the fall to produce a very small, 
sweet, tender root-. Packing is done in No. 2% and No. 10 cans. 

MARINE PRODUCTS. 

The canning industry may be said to have had its commercial begin- 
ning, both in Europe and America, with the packing of marine products. 
These products form one of the very important lines in the industry, 
the value of the salmon, sardines, oysters, and tuna being about 
$40,000,000 annually. The packing of shrimp, crabs, clams, roe, and 
other fish products, while of minor importance, in the aggregate reaches 
a very considerable sum. The 
packing of fresh-water fish, how- 
ever, has never attained any com- 
mercial importance. Fish have 
long been recognized as one of the 
sources of the cheapest food, and 
with the modern deA-elopment of 
methods of catching and machin- 
ery for handling, preservation by Razor dams 
canning affords a source of cheap 

protein. The cost is much less than with meat from the domestic 
animals. Tuna, shrimp, crabs, and oysters afford a particularly inviting 
and wide range of appetizing products. 

Abalones (Halioiis tuber culate). 

The abalone is obtained in limited quantities off the coast off south- 
western California and Lower California. It is taken by deep-sea 
divers, each shell being removed from its attachment by means of a 
pry bar. It is the largest shellfish canned and is minced. The packing 
is in ^-pound and 1 -pound flat cans. 

Clams {My a arenaria). 

Clams are packed upon both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, the 
former consisting almost exclusively of the little-neck variety and the 
latter of the razor clam. They are quite different in character. The 
former is canned whole, in chowder, and as broth, whereas the razor 
clam is much larger and requires so much trimming that it is minced 
and sold as minced clam. Packing is done in No. 1 tall, No, 2, and 
No. 3 cans. 

Crabs (Callinecies hasta). 

The crab, like the lobster, has become so generally esteemed as a 
delicacy and the demand for fresh stock is so great that only a very 
limited quantity is canned. The entire output at the present time is 



54 CANNED FOODS. 

limited to a few factories around Norfolk, Va. The crab meat is obtained 
by first boiling the crabs, then cracking or cutting the shells and extract- 
ing the meat by picking, by centrifugal force, or by compressed air. It is 
packed in two grades, the large clear white meat and the mixture of small 
bits and of dark meat. Some of the shells are cut, washed, cleaned, and 
packed in separate packages to be used in serving dishes, as deviled crab. 

Cod or Fish Flakes. 

From the time of the settlement of New England, cod and other ground 
fish have been caught and dry cured, and the operation has been con- 
ducted upon such a large scale as to make it one of the important food 
industries. To take the place of the dried fish, fish flakes have been 
developed and are rapidly becoming popular. The main part of the 
flakes is composed of cod, but some cusk and haddock are generally added. 

The fish are mild-cured and, 
when ready to use, are 
soaked in water to remove 
any excess salt. Unlike the 
treatment of salmon, the fish 
are cooked and the skin and 
bones removed before being 
placed in the can. The fish are 
broken apart by the cooking, 
and this has given rise to the 
trade name "fish flakes." 
There is no grading. 
a damp of oysters. The packing is done in cans 

of special size, the small being 
2f| inches (69.5 mm.) in diameter and 3>8 inches (80 mm.) tall, the large 
size 3fs inches (86 mm.) in diameter and 3 ! s inches tall 

Oysters (Ostrea virginiana). 

While the oyster is found along the greater part of the Atlantic and 
Gulf coasts, the canning is limited to the region of Chesapeake Bay and 
Savannah, Ga., in the East, to Apalachicola and the coast of Mississippi 
and Louisiana on the Gulf. The supplies obtained at other points are 
used in the fresh trade. The supply of this shellfish has been so much 
depleted that the gathering is limited to certain sizes and to certain 
months in the year. Every effort is being made to replenish the 
supply by cultivation. 

The oysters are taken by boats with dredges, are steamed to open the 
shells, and then shucked, washed, and filled into cans. The work is 
nearly all done by hand. 

The grading is done upon the basis of the size as determined by the 
number of shells in a barrel. Very large oysters, running from 450 to 
600 per barrel, are known as extra select, from 600 to 800 as select, and 
from 800 to 1,000 as standard The cans used hold 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 
ounces. 




CANNED FOODS. 



55 



Sardines (Clupea harengus). 

Sardine canning began in the United States, at Eastport, Me., in 1841, 
and that port continues to be the center of the industry. Sardines are 
also packed on the Pacific coast at Monterey, Cal. The food officials 
have defined the American sardine to be any small herring, and this is 
what is understood generally in the trade. The Pacific coast sardine 
differs slightly from the Atlantic and is a much larger fish, at one time 
beins: described as a small mackerel. 




Taking salmon from a trap. 

The sardine industry is quite similar to what it was a half century 
ago. The fish are caught in brush weirs and impounded until they have 
freed themselves of feed ; they are then taken to the factory and given a 
short pickle, after which they are washed, then fried in oil or dried in a 
steam or hot oven, and packed in small, flat cans with oil, or a mustard 
or tomato sauce. Sardines are nearly all packed in what are known as 
quarter or three-quarter cans, the former holding 4 and the latter 12 
ounces. 

Very little attention is given to the grading of sardines, as probably 
90 per cent are ocean run, steamed, and known as standard. The extra 
standard and fancy grades are usually packed to order. The fancy grade 
consists of sardines of nearly uniform size, medium fat, fried in oil, and 
packed in olive or cottonseed oil. The fish must be carefully layered to 
show the bright bellies and be free from broken or skinned fish. The 



56 CANNED FOODS. 

extra standard grade consists of steamed fish, selected for uniformity of 
size or count to the can, and packed in oil of a specified quality. They 
must present an appearance similar to the fancy. The standard grade con- 
sist s of ocean run, steamed fish, packed in cottonseed oil. 

Sardines in mustard or in tomato sauce are of the same grade as the 
standard, but in addition may contain the fish which are more or less 
broken in handling or which show skin blemishes. 

The Pacific coast sardines are fried in oil and the majority packed 
with tomato sauce. They are packed exclusively in oval cans holding i 
pound. The number varies from five to eight. 

Crayfish [Sequalus acanlhiar). 

The value of this fish for food has only recently been recognized. It is 
capable «>t" being used in a variety of ways and is an excellent food. It 
is canned in much the same manner as salmon, though a somewhat 
different nw thod of preliminary treatment is required. It is packed on 
both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and in i -pound salmon cans. 




Orayfi-.li. 
Herring. 

In taking the sardine it frequently happens that there is a considerable 
percentage of rather large fish, too large to pack properly in the regular 
sardiru cans. These fish have the tails clipped and are packed in round 
rails, which are well filled, but no attempt is made at careful layering. 
They may be packed plain or with tomato sauce, and make a very whole- 
some cheap product, but lack the attractive appearance of the smaller 
fish. They arc packed in i -pound and No. 2 cans. 

Herring Roe. 

Herring roe is obtained as a by-product in the herring fisheries on the 
roast of Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina. It is usually minced. 
The packing is in 1 -pound and No. 2 cans. 

Salmon (Oncorhynchus). 

The salmon stands preeminent as the fish for canning. It is caught in 
great quantities in the rivers emptying into the Pacific Ocean from San 
Francisco to near the straits in Alaska, with the principal centers of the 
industry on the Columbia River and Puget Sound. The first packing of 
Pacific coast salmon occurred in 1864, the total pack being less than 
100,000 tins. In 1882 the industry was extended to Alaska, and now 



CANNED FOODS. 



57 



the total pack is not far from 375,000,000 tins. The catching of salmon 
is done on such a gigantic scale that realization of its extent can be 
obtained only by a visit to the fishing grounds during the season. The 
fish are caught in enormous traps capable of impounding 100,000 pounds 
at a time, in nets that are operated by power or by teams, and with 
tackle small enough to be handled by one man. 

There are several varieties of the fish, varying in size and in the color 
and texture of the flesh and in flavor. The Sockeye is the variety which 
runs in the very large schools every four years. 

Salmon canning is almost wholly a mechanical process. The boats 
are loaded and unloaded by power; the fish are washed and scrubbed by 
machines; the "iron chink" cuts off the fins, opens the fish, extracts 
the viscera, and scrubs the fish inside, after which they are rewashed, 
cut into proper lengths, filled into cans, and automatically weighed 
without being touched by hands. The development of special machinery 
has gone as far or further in the canning of salmon than with any other 




l 



s/ 




King salmon. 



article of food, and what formerly requiied hundreds of persons in the 
butchering and in the filling and closing of cans is now done by a very 
small number. 

Salmon is graded only in a general way, based very largely upon the 
color and texture of the flesh rather than upon any particular cuts. 

The Chinook, King, or Spring salmon is the largest fish, weighing on 
an average about 22 pounds. The flesh is of medium texture, with 
sufficient oil and a very fine flavor, the color varying from a pale to 
a very deep pink. The Red, Blueback, or Sockeye is a small fish, 
weighing about 8 pounds, and has very red flesh of good texture. The 
Coho, Medium Red, or Silverside, is a smaller fish, weighing about 6 
pounds, with flesh decidedly pale in color but quite firm. It has usually 
a sufficient amount of oil, and is of good flavor. Its deficiency is 
more a matter of appearance than of real quality. The Humpback 
is the smallest salmon, weighing only about 4 pounds, Its flesh is pale 
and somewhat soft. The Chum or Keta averages about 8 pounds in 
weight, with flesh that is yellowish and rather soft. 

Salmon is packed in 1 -pound tall, 1 -pound flat, and ^ -pound flat cans. 



58 CANNED FOODS. 

Sea Mussels (Myiilus edulis). 

The sea mussel occurs in great abundance along the northern shores 
of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. It is not as attractive in appearance 
as the oyster or clam, having more dark flesh and more yellow color. 
The flavor is more pronounced, requiring less for chowder or when 
added to dressings. It is somewhat tougher than the oyster and clam, 
so is less desirable when fresh. This objection is overcome when it is 
canned. Sea mussels are packed in No. 2 cans. 

Shad Roe (Alosa sapidissima). 

The shad is sold as a fresh or frozen fish, but in the dressing the roe 
is saved and canned. The principal points of packing are the Sacra- 
mento River and Chesapeake Bay. The western packing is done in 8 
and 12 ounce oval tins, the roe being held as nearly whole as possible. 




Shrimp. One-half natural size. 

The eastern packing is done in 1 -pound and No. 2 round cans, the roe 
being cut or minced. 

Shrimp (Panxus brasiliensis). 

Shrimp are crustaceans belonging to the same group as the crabs 
and lobster, but are much smaller. They are found in the Gulf of Mexico 
and are caught on the east coast as far north as Savannah. Until within 
the last 10 years they were caught only in the shallow water along the 
shores, and only under favorable weather conditions in the late fall and 
early spring. This made a very uncertain catch. The fishing tackle 
has been very greatly improved, and the work is now conducted in 
fairly deep water, from boats, and the catch is very much stabilized. 

The shrimp are iced and the heads and shell removed, so that the 
part eaten is the large muscular portion of the tail. They are cooked 
in brine and change from a semitranslucent gray color to a clean white 
overlaid with pink. The shrimp is a delicate morsel, differing from both 
the lobster and the crab. The very large ones are exported as prawns. 

Shrimp are canned dry, or in weak brine, the latter preserving their 
delicacy of texture and flavor better than the former. The cans are 



CANNED FOODS. 59 

lined with parchment paper to minimize the development of dark spots. 
Packing is done in No. i tall and No. 2 cans. 

Tuna (Thunnus thynnus). 

The tuna is caught and canned on the southern coast of California, the 
canneries being located at the ports of Los Angeles and San Diego. Tuna 
is a new product of the highest quality, though prepared from a fish that 
only a few years ago was considered of inferior quality. The fish are 
handled fresh, are cooked before being put in the can, and their natural 
oil is removed and its place taken by olive oil. The result is a very 
characteristic flavor, so much like the breast meat of chicken that it has 
been styled "the chicken of the sea." 

Tuna comes in two grades, the regular or large white pieces, and the 
mixture of white and dark meat, the latter usually ground and spiced 
and called potted tuna. 

MEATS. 

The canning of meats is more carefully safeguarded than any other 
line, as all animals are given an ante and post mortem inspection ; besides, 
the curing of the meat and the subsequent canning are done under Gov- 
ernment supervision. There has been a popular, though erroneous, 
notion that only the poorer animals and the meats which would bring a 
low price were canned. It is in part to combat this notion and to insure 
the public against injury from unfit material that the packing is confined 
to establishments under Federal inspection. 

There is a large variety of meats canned, but nearly all require a pre- 
liminary curing or cooking. The meat, as it is marketed in the can, has 
lost from 20 to 50 per cent of its water, and is, therefore, more con- 
centrated than the fresh meat from the butcher's block. Canned meats 
have their excess fat, bone, and cartilage trimmed off, so there is no 
waste. These two factors, loss of weight due to water eliminated in 
canning and cooking and loss of weight due to trimming, make the canned 
meat appear to be much more costly than the fresh, when in reality the 
difference may be small. 

Meats are packed in large cuts which will just fit the can, and are 
designated by such names as roast beef, brisket beef, cottage beef, or in 
the case of a mild, sweet cured meat, as corned beef. The meat may be 
rather coarsely cut and mixed with cereal, and is then known as beef, 
veal, or ham loaf, as the case may be. Chopped corned beef seasoned 
and mixed with potatoes is known as corned-beef hash. Finely ground 
meats with or without the addition of a small quantity of cereal and 
highly spiced are the potted or deviled; and ground meats, either straight 
or mixed in the form of sausages, are known after the style in which the) 7 
are sold fresh. 

Tongue is packed whole, steak with onions, liver with bacon, kidneys 
stewed, and meat mixed with vegetables, as Irish stew. Poultry is packed 



6o 



CANNED FOODS. 




CANNED FOODS. 6 1 

boned. The fowls are given sufficient cooking so that the flesh may be 
st lipped from the bones and packed in large pieces, or it may be chopped 
or ground. 

OTHER PRODUCTS. 

Chili con Came. 

There are two styles of the Mexican dish known as chili con carne, the 
hot and the mild. The former is composed of beef cut into small cubes 
and mixed with a heavy chili sauce. This is further spiced by the addi- 
tion of black pepper. The mild chili con carne is made of beef and chili 
sauce without pepper and has the addition of red kidney beans or frijoles. 
Packing is done in 5 and 7 ounce cans. 

Chop Suey. 

Canned chop suey is quite different from the Chinese article and by the 
majoritv of Americans the substitute is preferred. It consists of chicken, 
veal, pork, rice, bean sprouts, and the proper flavoring. It makes a de- 
cidedly rich and pleasing combination. The manufacture is under the 
supervision of Chinese chefs. 

Enchilada. 

This Mexican dish is similar to the tamale, but when canned, instead 
of having the lining made of ordinary corn meal, it is made from rather 
coarse freshly prepared lye hominy meal. The meat and sauce are es- 
sentially the same as in the tamale. Packing is done in 5 and 7 ounce cans. 

Ravioli. 

The canned ravioli is an attempt to simulate the Italian dish of that 
name. Instead of the meat being placed between two layers of paste and 
cooked, the meat and its sauce and the paste are prepared separately. 
The paste is cut into the usual squares and filled into the can with the 
meat. Packing is done in 7-ounce cans. 

Tamales. 

The canning of tamales has developed with the introduction of some 
dishes prepared according to the Mexican style of cookery. The tamale 
is canned in two styles, plain and Mexican. In the plain tamale the can 
is lined with a heavy batter of corn meal, made by cooking the meal in 
the beef broth, and the center of the can is filled with meat, olives, chili, 
and spices. The meat may be chicken, veal; or beef, and the tamale is 
designated by the kind of meat used. In the Mexican style the same 
ingredients are used, but they are layered and wrapped with clean soft 
corn husks. The latter give the characteristic flavor. The plain style 
is preferred when canned. 

The packing is done in the tamale can, which has been designed to 
hold sufficient for one service for a laboring man or two or three services 
for persons of sedentary habits. The use of the tamale is growing with 
considerable rapidity. 



62 



CANNED FOODS. 



Milk. 

The manufacture of evaporated and condensed milk is of American 
origin. The persistent work on the part of Mr. Gail Borden brought him 
the reward of a patent upon the process of reducing milk in vacuo in 




1856. The earlier method depended upon the addition of sugar to the 
milk to insure preservation, and sterilization by heat without sugar came 
as a later development. The work which has been done since has been 
mainly in improving the mechanical apparatus used. . 



CANNED FOODS. 63 

Milk is the most perishable of all food products packed in tin con- 
tainers. It is a perfect food and a good medium for many forms of 
organisms, breaking down readily under their activity. Milk which has 
undergone even slight change can not be used for evaporating, as it 
will not make a merchantable product. It is therefore necessary to 
obtain the milk from large herds, to make rigid inspection for disease, to 
control the feed, to require cleanliness in handling, rapid cooling of the 
milk, and prompt delivery to the factory. The milk is evaporated to a 
standard consistency in a vacuum pan, each batch being tested to insure 
that it be of legal standard in fat and in solids not fat. 

Evaporated milk is milk from which a part of the moisture has been 
removed and which contains not less than 7.5 per cent of butter fat and 
25.5 per cent total solids. It is packed in cans containing 6, 12, and 
16 ounces (170, 340, and 454 grams). 

Condensed milk is milk from which a part of the moisture has been 
removed and sugar added for its preservation. 

Natural milk is a new product being placed upon the market. It con- 
sists of whole milk which has been homogenized and then sterilized. 

Soups. 

Soup is prepared in a variety of ways and represents in many cases the 
best results of skillful chefs. Soup canning, like meat canning, is carried 
on at only a few factories, as the majority of soups contain meat stock in 
sufficient quantity to require the presence of a Government inspector in 
the plant. Soups, more than any other line, represent the blending of 
products and seasoning by the skillful cook or chef. The factory has 
the advantage of being able to select high-grade material in large quan- 
tity, to have special machinery for its preparation, of being able to con- 
trol the temperature to a nicety in the cooking, and, by the aid of experts, 
to be able to make a better and more economical product than can be 
prepared in the home. 

For a long time soup had been looked upon as a product which anyone 
could prepare in the kitchen from the cheaper cuts of meat and the left- 
over odds and ends of vegetables, and because of this view and the 
indifferent quality of the resultant product a kind of natural popular 
prejudice was created against the canned article. This has been broken 
by sheer force of superior quality in the latter, and in no other line has 
such rapid progress been made in the past few years. The vegetable 
soups, such as asparagus, celery, pea, and tomato are packed only during 
the season when the fresh vegetables are available, and not from bulk 
stock, as many suppose. 

Soups are divided into two classes, light and condensed. The former 
are ready to serve without the addition of an agent such as water or 
milk. These are chiefly beef, mutton, veal, chicken, and clam broths 



6 4 



CANNED FOODS. 




CANNED FOODS. 65 

or bouillon, and are often prescribed for invalids. They are packed in 
S, 16, 32 ounce, and No. 10 cans. 

The condensed soups require the addition of an equal volume or more 
of water or, in some cases, milk. They are: 



Asparagus. 


Ox tail, thick. 


Tomato-okra. 


Beef. 


Celery. 


Chicken gumbo. 


Bouillon. 


Consomme. 


Clam bouillon. 


Julienne. 


Chicken. 


Clam chowder. 


Mock turtle. 


Pea. 


Vegetable, clear. 


Mulligatawney. 


Pepper pot. 


Vegetable, thick. 


Mutton. 


Printanier. 




Ox tail, clear. 


Tomato. 





The foregoing are packed in Xo. 1 cans, containing io>£ ounces (298 
grams). The beef, clam chowder, mutton, ox tail, tomato, and vermicelli 
are also packed in Xo. 10 cans, containing 7 pounds (3.18 kilos). 

The United States Bureau of Animal Industry does not permit soups 
bearing the meat inspection legend to be packed in cases with other goods 
not bearing the legend; therefore mixed cases can not be made of the 
two classes. The soups bearing the meat inspection legend are: 

Beef. Mutton. 

Bouillon. Ox tail. 

Consomme. Pepper pot. 

Julienne. Printanier. 

Mock turtle. Vegetable. 

Pork and Beans. 

One of the most nutritious products packed in the tin can is pork and 
beans. The beans used for this purpose are the small white pea or 
navy beans, and those grown in Michigan, "Wisconsin, and Xew York are 
given the preference. If any other variety of bean be used, the fact must 
be disclosed upon the label. 

If the beans be subjected to dry heat, as in an oven, before they are 
placed in the cans, they are known as baked beans, and if olive oil be 
substituted for the bit of pork, they are known as beans vegetarian 
style. Pork and beans, baked beans, or beans vegetarian style may be 
obtained with a plain spice sauce or with tomato sauce, about 90 per cent 
being packed with the latter. The packing is done in Xo. i}4 and in 
16, 20, and 34 ounce cans. 

Red Kidney Beans. 

The red kidney bean is much larger than the white bean and has 
quite a distinctive flavor. It is growing in favor almost as rapidly as 
the white bean. In the South and Southwest the sauce is prepared 
with chili. 

89274°— 17 5 



66 



CAXXED FOODS. 




CAXXED FOODS , 67 

Hominy. 

Lye hominy is one of the old staples much appreciated by men engaged 
in hard physical labor, such as mining, railroad construction, logging, 
and ranching. It has not been canned until recent years, but has become 
popular not only among the laborers but among many others as a break- 
fast food. Pearl hominy, the kind in which the hull is removed from the 
grain by machinery, is also canned, but is not nearly so popular as the 
old style whole grain. Packing is done in Xo. 2 and Xo. 3 cans. 

Corn-meal Mush. 

Ground corn meal is given a very prolonged boiling in open kettles 
until it acquires a heavy consistency, popularly known as mush. When 
cold it makes a solid mass which, on account of the cylindrical shape 
imparted by the can, permits attractive slices to be cut for frying. It is 
packed in Xo. 3 cans. 

Kraut. 

The canning of sauer kraut has come about in response to the demand 
for a more sanitary method of handling. The open barrel or keg per- 
mitted the handling of the kraut by hands none too clean from other 
work, and added to this was a constant tendency to spoilage on the sur- 
face. Canning not only eliminates the insanitary feature but conserves 
waste to a degree sufficient to pay for the extra cost of packing. It 
is packed in No. 1% and Xo. 3 cans. 

Spaghetti. 

Spaghetti is an Italian style of paste which has been growing steadily 
in popularity since its introduction into the United States. Most per- 
sons do not understand the best methods or do not have the necessary 
material for its preparation, so that the canned product makes a properly 
prepared article available to them. It is packed in cans holding 1 1 and 
21 ounces. 



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